Table 2 Emerging paradoxes: the case of... | Emerald Publishing

Table 2

Emerging paradoxes: the case of innovative sustainable materials’ fashion suppliers

Paradox type	Brief description	Evidence from the cases	Main network relationships involved
*Product and performance paradox*	The development of innovative sustainable materials necessitates the use of inherently unsustainable components; also, technical issues arise to ensure adequate product performance	“We have always worked with chemicals. […] The material cannot be made entirely from apples; we need binders. Otherwise, it would not hold its shape” (Alpha) “It is necessary to include fossil-based polyurethane; otherwise, the material would not have the performance it currently boasts” (Gamma) “It is very challenging to produce entire collections using vegetable dyes. Ensuring color fastness with coffee […] is difficult” (Delta)	– Raw materials suppliers (i.e., suppliers of polymers, paints, adhesives and solvents) – Production companies – Customers
*Sourcing and production network paradox*	The sourcing and production stages of innovative sustainable materials face important procurement challenges (e.g. in terms of seasonality or the development of ad hoc crops) and technical issues (mainly considering the use of specific and also expensive machinery)	“Taking marble from the quarry, if there were a particularly rainy season, we would not be able to collect it directly from there” (Beta) “The corn comes from industrial crops…I know that this could be a weakness” (Gamma) “Manufacturing companies have faced immense challenges in producing our material. […] The machinery available is traditional and not calibrated to handle marble powder” (Beta) “Specific fibers can dirty and destroy the production machines” (Delta)	– Sustainable raw materials suppliers – Manufacturing firms – Technical partners – Production machinery suppliers
*Market bifurcation paradox*	The market entry of innovative sustainable materials faces a bifurcation (luxury and small fashion enterprises), where in neither case the adoption of these products is significant	“Collaborations are limited to capsule collections rather than stable and continuous collections” (Alpha) “Famous fashion companies that align with sustainability topics or just seek high-end fabrics with unique styles. […] Also small or very small fashion companies devoted to sustainability” (Delta) “It is easier to work with fashion startups; they are very proactive business realities” (Beta)	– Luxury and established fashion companies – Sustainable new ventures – Fashion startups
*Misleading perceptions paradox*	The concept of innovative sustainable materials faces inconsistent perceptions among business actors within the network, blurring the lines of what sustainability means and hindering the diffusion of these novel products	“[…] they are unaware that also PVC can be a vegan material!” (Alpha) “Leather is considered as biodegradable, because it is a waste product of human nutrition” (Beta) “Some customers do not want to use the word ‘recycled’. […] They are reluctant” (Gamma)	– Buyers – Distributors – Retailers – Business partners and customers

Paradox type	Brief description	Evidence from the cases	Main network relationships involved
Product and performance paradox	The development of innovative sustainable materials necessitates the use of inherently unsustainable components; also, technical issues arise to ensure adequate product performance	“We have always worked with chemicals. […] The material cannot be made entirely from apples; we need binders. Otherwise, it would not hold its shape” (Alpha)“It is necessary to include fossil-based polyurethane; otherwise, the material would not have the performance it currently boasts” (Gamma)“It is very challenging to produce entire collections using vegetable dyes. Ensuring color fastness with coffee […] is difficult” (Delta)	– Raw materials suppliers (i.e., suppliers of polymers, paints, adhesives and solvents)– Production companies– Customers
Sourcing and production network paradox	The sourcing and production stages of innovative sustainable materials face important procurement challenges (e.g. in terms of seasonality or the development of ad hoc crops) and technical issues (mainly considering the use of specific and also expensive machinery)	“Taking marble from the quarry, if there were a particularly rainy season, we would not be able to collect it directly from there” (Beta)“The corn comes from industrial crops…I know that this could be a weakness” (Gamma)“Manufacturing companies have faced immense challenges in producing our material. […] The machinery available is traditional and not calibrated to handle marble powder” (Beta)“Specific fibers can dirty and destroy the production machines” (Delta)	– Sustainable raw materials suppliers– Manufacturing firms– Technical partners– Production machinery suppliers
Market bifurcation paradox	The market entry of innovative sustainable materials faces a bifurcation (luxury and small fashion enterprises), where in neither case the adoption of these products is significant	“Collaborations are limited to capsule collections rather than stable and continuous collections” (Alpha)“Famous fashion companies that align with sustainability topics or just seek high-end fabrics with unique styles. […] Also small or very small fashion companies devoted to sustainability” (Delta)“It is easier to work with fashion startups; they are very proactive business realities” (Beta)	– Luxury and established fashion companies– Sustainable new ventures– Fashion startups
Misleading perceptions paradox	The concept of innovative sustainable materials faces inconsistent perceptions among business actors within the network, blurring the lines of what sustainability means and hindering the diffusion of these novel products	“[…] they are unaware that also PVC can be a vegan material!” (Alpha)“Leather is considered as biodegradable, because it is a waste product of human nutrition” (Beta)“Some customers do not want to use the word ‘recycled’. […] They are reluctant” (Gamma)	– Buyers– Distributors– Retailers– Business partners and customers

Source(s): Authors’ elaboration