Table A1

Case descriptions and data-collection process

Case SNCaLocationSizebCompany value chain position and productcSmall-series production model implementation (% total)Respondents (# of interviewsd)Data collection processdData triangulation
Case 1ItalyLargeSV-BR: Physical retail stores, multiple brands, apparel and accessories, including high-tech sportswearSmall volume:In-progress- Proximity sourcing (reshoring) to test small-series production
(5–10%)
A/B-Two Internal R&D/project managers (2), C-Internal R&D/project manager, external project manager (1/2), C-Two internal R&D/project managers, external project manager (1/2)A-1 h 15 min; B-1 h, C- (two parts) 1 h total; with follow-up/case validation by emailCompany website
Case 2SwedenLargeSV-BR: E-commerce retailer of fashion products, e.g. trend and never out of stock apparel and shoesSmall volume:Established and growing- Growing proportion of 300–600 piece orders with proximity sourcing (∼12% of apparel)A/B/C-Sourcing manager (3)A-1 h; B-1 h 30 min; C-1 h; Follow-up- 1 h, with case validation by emailCompany website
Case 3ItalyLargeSV-P/B: Complex fashion products with sustainable high-technology fabrics and innovative processesSmall volume:Established- Focus on fabric production and small volume product sustainability (100% of apparel)
A-Supply chain manager (notes), B-Internal project manager-technical department, Internal product manager, Two external project managers (1), C-Internal project manager-technical department, External project manager (1), Follow-up-Technical department representative, External project manager (1)A- (other researcher with notes); B-1 h 45 min; C- 1 h; Follow-up- 1 h, with case validation by emailCompany website, brand website, site visits
Case 4ItalyMediumSV-PR: Full-package fashion garment productionSmall volume:Established- Focus on small volume products using classic and innovative technologies (100%)A/B-Two Internal project/product managers (2), C/Follow-up- Two Internal project/product managers, External project manager (2)A- 45 min; B- 1 h 20 min; C-1 h; and follow-up- 1 h, with case validation by emailCompany website, site visit
Case 5SwedenMicroSV/OD-P/B: CMT (Cut-Make-Trim) manufacturing for all products and sustainable denim brandSmall volume:Established-Focus on flexible/small volume production
Custom/on-demand:In-progress- On-demand brand production (∼100%)
A/B/C/Follow-up- Owner (∼4)A- 1 h 45 min; B- informal discussion to follow up on SNC (notes), C- 1 h; and follow-up- 1 h 15 min, with case validation by emailCompany website, brand website, site visits
Case 6BelgiumMicroMTM-BR: Customer-driven digital business model for MTM woven fashion productsCustom/on-demand:Established and growing- Focus on high variety MTM products with proximity sourcing (∼100%)A/B/C- CEO (3), Follow-up- CEO, External project manager (1)A- 1 h; B- 1 h 45 min; C- 1 h; and follow-up- 1 h, with case validation by emailCompany website
Case 7DenmarkSmallMTM-BR: Customer-driven digital business model for sustainable MTM jersey/knit productsCustom/on-demand:Established and growing- Focus on MTM product sustainability with proximity sourcing (∼100%)A/B/C- CEO (3)A- 1 h; B- 50 min; C- 35 min; and follow-up/case validation by emailCompany website, Marketing/communication/crowdfunding
Note(s):a SNC for small-series production model(s) defined according to interviewed firm network horizon (Halinen and Törnroos, 2005); b Size defined by employee numbers, in line with European Commission (2003); cAbbreviation based on product focus and ownership of brand and production (SV-Small volume, OD-On-demand, MTM-Made-to-measure, BR-Brand, PR-Producer, P/B-Producer/Brand); d Interview rounds-details below (A-Structured regarding SNC; B-Semi-structured regarding SNC; C-Semi-structured regarding paradoxes; Follow-up)
Interview round 1 – Structured interview (Interview A)[Case and SNC context]
  • CONTEXT

    1. What are the products currently offered in small-series, and how?

      • a.What production dynamics are used?

      • b.What percentage of total production is offered this way?

    2. What are the potential products that could be offered this way in the future (short/medium term)?

    3. How does (or could) this type of production interact with the standard offering?

  • SUPPLY NETWORK CONFIGURATION

    1. What is required for small-series textile/apparel production throughout the supply network? [closed-SNC aspects]

    2. How do those required elements relate to (influence) each other?

      • a.How can you explain this influence? (positive/negative impacts) [open]

Interview round 2-Semi-structured interview (Interview B)[Case and SNC context]
  • Presentation of results to verify and elaborate upon:

  • CONTEXT

    1. Business case

    2. Small-series production model

  • ENVIRONMENT and RECONFIGURATION

    1. How has the business environment changed from the past, and how do you foresee it changing in the future:

      • a.What changes to downstream demand, upstream supply?

      • b.What changes to Products, Operations, Relationships, Structures?

  • INTERRELATIONSHIPS ELABORATION

    1. How do the above described characteristics interrelate, with:

      • a.Performance, Products, Operations, Relationships, Structures?

Interview round 3 – Semi-structured interview (Interview C)[Case paradoxes and management]
  • Updating and clarification of changes (if any):

    • -Follow-up on in progress small-series production models reconfigurations or planning

    • -Environmental changes and impacts

  • PARADOXES [Coding structure, based onSmith and Lewis (2011);Srai and Gregory (2008)]

    1. How are the four different types of paradoxes related to, and managed with small-series production*?

      1. Learning/Knowledge – tensions between incremental and radical innovation (e.g. stability/change)

      2. Belonging/Identity – tensions between individual/firm and collective (e.g. different stakeholder views)

      3. Organizing/Process – tensions between competing process designs (e.g. flexibility/control)

      4. Performing/Goals – competing strategies and goals (e.g. cost/lead time)

*Regarding characteristics and changes related to:
  • a.Priorities/motivations (e.g. capabilities like delivery, quality, etc. that are linked to structures and decisions)

  • b.Products (e.g. structure, composition, variety)

  • c.Processes (e.g. operations flow, technology-production and ICT, activities)

  • d.Supply chain relationships (e.g. levels of trust, integration, collaboration, ownership)

  • e.Supply chain structures (e.g. location, number of suppliers, complexity of structures)

(Follow-up: Do you see any benefits to viewing such issues from a paradox perspective; if yes, which benefits?)

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