Table A1 I Data coding tree Theme... | Emerald Publishing

Table A1

I Data coding tree

Theme	Second-order category	Representative quote
Supply chain level	Cost reduction	‘When it comes to pricing, the suppliers that pay much less attention to sustainability than us, will get the order if they give two lira less than us. At the end of the day everything is about cost.’ (Production Manager, Tier-1 Inclusive)
	Paradoxical demands	‘[FG1] tell us not to exceed 11 h a day [to ensure overtime compliance] but then demands 230.000 products to be shipped by, for example, the coming Wednesday. You [FG1] pressure the production department [for on-time delivery] while also pushing the sustainability department for social compliance.’ (Sustainability Officer 1, Tier-1 Proactive)
	Operational pressure	‘The brand tells us that you [as the manufacturer] will treat your employees well without coercion, without ill-treatment, without discrimination, but at the same time the brand pressures the manufacturer for fast production. If a worker works overtime until eleven at night, she's working to get that product out for you.’ (Sustainability Officer 1, Tier-1 Proactive)
Organisational level	Top-down decision-making	‘I am responsible for Tier 2, from their water use to their energy use. And FG1 never communicate with them. I am the bridge between them because the product comes from me. And FG1 say, “You have to supervise your supplier. You have to evaluate their water, their energy use” and if there is something missing, FG1 don't ask or go back to them. Then their performance score is reduced, and so is mine (Health and Safety Manager, Tier-1 Inclusive)
	Standardised tools	‘There are data points where we can't really meet some of their requests. It also differs from workshop to workshop. It is very difficult to implement these requests in every workshop. Even if the operation of the job is the same, the context and environmental conditions may not be the same.’ (Sustainability Officer 2, Tier-1 Inclusive)
	Third-party audits	‘Previously the brand was sending its own employees, the employee was auditing us. At that time, there was no inspection fee. But in recent years, it's not such a small number, in other words we pay almost $10,000 dollars just for this. There are certain items [in the audits], where we say we are a dyeing house, in our case, so certain things, for example, the needle fracture procedure does not exist. We are not apparel. We don't sew, we don't knit. So that happens in knitting or weaving, it happens in clothing, but they [FG1 and the auditors] insist on it. Some inspectors lack chemical knowledge. We try to explain, but we can't explain the whole situation.’ (Sustainability Manager, Process Laser)
Individual level	Culture of fear	‘Most people [the workers] here are silent, are afraid of complaining, thinking that “if we say this, we might lose our job or they might treat us worse”. Most workers cannot voice their complaints.’ (Worker 5, Tier-1 Inclusive)
Individual level	Psychological impacts	‘We are sad, our enthusiasm decreases because they [managers and line-managers] don't listen to us. They think shouting will increase [our performance], but that's not how it works. When we are sad, numbers drop even more, we can't work. We work in hard and challenging conditions to get the work done. We are exhausted.’ (Worker 5, Tier-1 Inclusive)
	Physical harm	‘They don't even respect human rights in this profession. It is two hours [to reach home], at 11, midnight, you go to bed. Well, this man [a worker] comes to work tired in the morning and then his finger gets caught in the machine or cut with a needle.’ (Worker 7, Tier-1 Inclusive)

Theme	Second-order category	Representative quote
Supply chain level	Cost reduction	‘When it comes to pricing, the suppliers that pay much less attention to sustainability than us, will get the order if they give two lira less than us. At the end of the day everything is about cost.’ (Production Manager, Tier-1 Inclusive)
	Paradoxical demands	‘[FG1] tell us not to exceed 11 h a day [to ensure overtime compliance] but then demands 230.000 products to be shipped by, for example, the coming Wednesday. You [FG1] pressure the production department [for on-time delivery] while also pushing the sustainability department for social compliance.’ (Sustainability Officer 1, Tier-1 Proactive)
	Operational pressure	‘The brand tells us that you [as the manufacturer] will treat your employees well without coercion, without ill-treatment, without discrimination, but at the same time the brand pressures the manufacturer for fast production. If a worker works overtime until eleven at night, she's working to get that product out for you.’ (Sustainability Officer 1, Tier-1 Proactive)
Organisational level	Top-down decision-making	‘I am responsible for Tier 2, from their water use to their energy use. And FG1 never communicate with them. I am the bridge between them because the product comes from me. And FG1 say, “You have to supervise your supplier. You have to evaluate their water, their energy use” and if there is something missing, FG1 don't ask or go back to them. Then their performance score is reduced, and so is mine (Health and Safety Manager, Tier-1 Inclusive)
	Standardised tools	‘There are data points where we can't really meet some of their requests. It also differs from workshop to workshop. It is very difficult to implement these requests in every workshop. Even if the operation of the job is the same, the context and environmental conditions may not be the same.’ (Sustainability Officer 2, Tier-1 Inclusive)
	Third-party audits	‘Previously the brand was sending its own employees, the employee was auditing us. At that time, there was no inspection fee. But in recent years, it's not such a small number, in other words we pay almost $10,000 dollars just for this. There are certain items [in the audits], where we say we are a dyeing house, in our case, so certain things, for example, the needle fracture procedure does not exist. We are not apparel. We don't sew, we don't knit. So that happens in knitting or weaving, it happens in clothing, but they [FG1 and the auditors] insist on it. Some inspectors lack chemical knowledge. We try to explain, but we can't explain the whole situation.’ (Sustainability Manager, Process Laser)
Individual level	Culture of fear	‘Most people [the workers] here are silent, are afraid of complaining, thinking that “if we say this, we might lose our job or they might treat us worse”. Most workers cannot voice their complaints.’ (Worker 5, Tier-1 Inclusive)
Individual level	Psychological impacts	‘We are sad, our enthusiasm decreases because they [managers and line-managers] don't listen to us. They think shouting will increase [our performance], but that's not how it works. When we are sad, numbers drop even more, we can't work. We work in hard and challenging conditions to get the work done. We are exhausted.’ (Worker 5, Tier-1 Inclusive)
	Physical harm	‘They don't even respect human rights in this profession. It is two hours [to reach home], at 11, midnight, you go to bed. Well, this man [a worker] comes to work tired in the morning and then his finger gets caught in the machine or cut with a needle.’ (Worker 7, Tier-1 Inclusive)

Source(s): Created by author team