Table 1 Details of the interviewed cases...

Table 1

Details of the interviewed cases

Case labels	Description	Respondents' designation	Collection	Sorting	Resell or trading	Recycling/Remanufacturing and circular procurement
1	Integrated sorter-recycler headquartered in Netherlands and operating in Benelux and Germany, with large-scale sorting and recycling, and established collection partnerships and own vintage shops and exports	Head of business development	x	x	x	x
2	Swedish NPO with 50 years of experience in second-hand business, with various collection partnerships, sorting facility, own second-hand shops and exports	Head of acquisition and recycling	x	x	x
3	Swedish NPO with second-hand operations that include collection, sorting and resale of second-hand items via 60+ stores	Environmental strategist	x	x	x
4	Largest collector with over 3,000 containers in Norway, and a part of an international charity. Main operations include sorting, reselling and exports by sister trading concern jointly with its Swedish counterpart	Head of sustainability and innovation; Export Manager	x	x	x
5	Swedish clothing brand operating 155 stores in five Nordic countries. Its current circular initiatives and collaborations focus on product and production, and also circular design	Sustainability manager	x		x	x
6	Swedish internationally operating clothing retailer with over 4,000 stores in 54 markets. Its main circular activities include collaboration with an international sorter-recycler to engage with in-store take back, and also running various second-hand resale concepts	Circular strategy lead	x		x	x
7	International aid organization with Swedish second-hand business with large scale collection and exporting to Africa, Eastern Europe and the Middle East. A small amount is also sorted in Sweden for own stores	Deputy director	x	x	x
8	German collection company operating mainly in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. It is a subsidiary of an international sorter-recycler with about 90,000 tonnes of annual used clothes collection. Also runs in-store garment collection program by partnering with fashion brands	Managing directors	x
9	Upper class municipality in west Sweden, which has adopted several initiatives when it comes to handling textile waste streams	Strategy developer	x
10	Sweden's oldest chain of second-hand stores and is owned by an international charity organization. Organizes collection, sorting and reselling of used clothes in both own stores and via exports	Managing director	x	x	x
11	Swedish NPO and part of an international humanitarian organization, with around 250 shops, each decentrally organizing collection, sorting and reselling activities	Business developer	x	x	x
12	Swedish chemical recycler, which converts cellulosic-rich textiles into fibre pulp as raw material for viscose and lyocell	Strategy director				x
13	Swedish automatic sorter (a public-private venture) using near-infrared technology for sorting large volume of used clothes into colour and material composition	Senior project manager		x
14	Integrated sorter-recycler headquartered in Germany with operations in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Operations include organization various collection channels, extensive sorting, reselling and exports and also mechanical recycling	CEO; Key accounts manager		x	x	x
15	Swedish social enterprise – an NPO with second-hand business that includes various ways of collection, sorting, reselling and exports along with an upcycling concept	Head of acquisition; Area Manager Recycling and Production	x	x	x	x
16	Integrated sorter-recycler headquartered in Switzerland with operations in Germany, Austria and Switzerland, and engaged with collection, large-scale sorting, reselling and mechanical recycling of used clothes	CEO	x	x	x	x
17	Swedish social enterprise – an NPO managing the small-scale collection in collaboration with municipalities and real-estate companies. Partners with large European sorter	Regional head	x
18	Integrated sorter-recycler operating in Poland and Germany with current operations consisting of collection, sorting, gradation and then reselling used clothes. Also conducts mechanical recycling on pilot-scale	Director; R&D director	x	x	x	x
19	Dutch integrated sorter-recycler operating with the entire recycling supply chain, from collection, sorting, recycling (own mechanical recycling) and creation of new textiles by spinning and weaving the recycled fibres	Innovation Manager	x	x	x	x
20	Swedish sorter with R&D based semi-automated pilot line operated for both sorting for reuse and recycling	Innovation manager		x
			16	14	14	9

Case labels	Description	Respondents' designation	Collection	Sorting	Resell or trading	Recycling/Remanufacturing and circular procurement
1	Integrated sorter-recycler headquartered in Netherlands and operating in Benelux and Germany, with large-scale sorting and recycling, and established collection partnerships and own vintage shops and exports	Head of business development	x	x	x	x
2	Swedish NPO with 50 years of experience in second-hand business, with various collection partnerships, sorting facility, own second-hand shops and exports	Head of acquisition and recycling	x	x	x
3	Swedish NPO with second-hand operations that include collection, sorting and resale of second-hand items via 60+ stores	Environmental strategist	x	x	x
4	Largest collector with over 3,000 containers in Norway, and a part of an international charity. Main operations include sorting, reselling and exports by sister trading concern jointly with its Swedish counterpart	Head of sustainability and innovation; Export Manager	x	x	x
5	Swedish clothing brand operating 155 stores in five Nordic countries. Its current circular initiatives and collaborations focus on product and production, and also circular design	Sustainability manager	x		x	x
6	Swedish internationally operating clothing retailer with over 4,000 stores in 54 markets. Its main circular activities include collaboration with an international sorter-recycler to engage with in-store take back, and also running various second-hand resale concepts	Circular strategy lead	x		x	x
7	International aid organization with Swedish second-hand business with large scale collection and exporting to Africa, Eastern Europe and the Middle East. A small amount is also sorted in Sweden for own stores	Deputy director	x	x	x
8	German collection company operating mainly in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. It is a subsidiary of an international sorter-recycler with about 90,000 tonnes of annual used clothes collection. Also runs in-store garment collection program by partnering with fashion brands	Managing directors	x
9	Upper class municipality in west Sweden, which has adopted several initiatives when it comes to handling textile waste streams	Strategy developer	x
10	Sweden's oldest chain of second-hand stores and is owned by an international charity organization. Organizes collection, sorting and reselling of used clothes in both own stores and via exports	Managing director	x	x	x
11	Swedish NPO and part of an international humanitarian organization, with around 250 shops, each decentrally organizing collection, sorting and reselling activities	Business developer	x	x	x
12	Swedish chemical recycler, which converts cellulosic-rich textiles into fibre pulp as raw material for viscose and lyocell	Strategy director				x
13	Swedish automatic sorter (a public-private venture) using near-infrared technology for sorting large volume of used clothes into colour and material composition	Senior project manager		x
14	Integrated sorter-recycler headquartered in Germany with operations in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Operations include organization various collection channels, extensive sorting, reselling and exports and also mechanical recycling	CEO; Key accounts manager		x	x	x
15	Swedish social enterprise – an NPO with second-hand business that includes various ways of collection, sorting, reselling and exports along with an upcycling concept	Head of acquisition; Area Manager Recycling and Production	x	x	x	x
16	Integrated sorter-recycler headquartered in Switzerland with operations in Germany, Austria and Switzerland, and engaged with collection, large-scale sorting, reselling and mechanical recycling of used clothes	CEO	x	x	x	x
17	Swedish social enterprise – an NPO managing the small-scale collection in collaboration with municipalities and real-estate companies. Partners with large European sorter	Regional head	x
18	Integrated sorter-recycler operating in Poland and Germany with current operations consisting of collection, sorting, gradation and then reselling used clothes. Also conducts mechanical recycling on pilot-scale	Director; R&D director	x	x	x	x
19	Dutch integrated sorter-recycler operating with the entire recycling supply chain, from collection, sorting, recycling (own mechanical recycling) and creation of new textiles by spinning and weaving the recycled fibres	Innovation Manager	x	x	x	x
20	Swedish sorter with R&D based semi-automated pilot line operated for both sorting for reuse and recycling	Innovation manager		x
			16	14	14	9

Source(s): Authors' own work

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