Chapter 34: Beautiful Experiences

T he article is solely based on the author’s experiences and understanding of the culture, therefore it does not cover all aspects of Bhutanese life, however, as a whole it should give the reader some glimpses of the unique culture of our country.

As one of the supervisors for the nation wide Renewable NaturalResources census under the Ministry of Agriculture in 2000 for the WestCentral Region covering Wangdiphodrang, Punakha, Tsirang, Dagana and Gasa dzongkhags, I travelled with a group of students employed as enumerators. The journey involved more than just getting the work done; it was also about exploring people and the culture of our country. For example, one should not be surprised to see the traditional Bhutanese house with a phallus mostly made out of wood hanging by the roof. This is a symbolic gesture to ward off the evil spirits and sometimes one can see big painted pictures of a phallus on buildings for the same reason. Despite the tiredness I experienced while travelling in the villages, I always had a feeling of goodness when seeing the prayer flags fluttering on the hilltops, mani -walls, chortens and being blessed wherever there were Lhakhangs (temples). Besides the beautiful walk, the experience was also about the friendliness of local people we met on the way. We didn’t need to know them, but just to say ‘ Kuzuzangpo ! and offer them “ doma pan. ” They always interacted with us. Upon arrival at Dagigang village, we were treated to butter tea ( suja) and roasted rice ( zaw) . It was quite hard work to visit the scattered households on the hill tops in order to interview the farming community. However, in the evening we were entertained by young boys at the door chanting songs of “ Loh-ley” , sung during “ ngilo” a festival celebrated in western Bhutan that refers to the return of the winter sun, falling on the night before the winter solstice. Everyone after winter solstice gets one year older than they were and people joke saying during “ ngilo” they should hide in the basement to escape getting older and thus stay young forever. The song wishes the households good fortune in the coming year. The houses offer the young boys either money or food items. It reminded me of the diwali festival observed among the Hindus in the southern part of the country.