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Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to analyse the advantages of a new interpretation of the geometric disposition of threads within woven fabric structures, and to develop a method of determining the parameters of threads, with reference to each order of their disposition.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on the analysis of the geometrical models proposed by Barker and Midgely, by Pierce and by Novikov, the substantiation of the advantages of a stricter model, offered by the authors, for determining the geometric disposition of threads within single layer woven fabric structures with the help of the tangent function is given. This model allows the substantial expansion of the actual bounds of the interval of the order of the geometric disposition of threads in woven fabric structures to 0.2‐9.8.

Findings

The tangent function can approximate the crimp height ratio of the warp threads within the woven fabric structure with accuracy within the limits of geometric disposition angle change from 1° to 89°.

Research limitations/implications

The work has applications in the industrial production of woven fabrics.

Practical implications

This research will allow the design of a woven fabric with practically any ratio of crimp height for the warp and weft threads to effectively achieve the required performance characteristics of the cloth.

Originality/value

This paper extends the knowledge of the geometrical characteristics of woven fabric structure, and proposes intelligent methods of determining the parameters of thread cross‐sections in accordance with the orders of the geometric disposition of threads in woven fabric structure.

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