The challenge of changing from empirical craft to engineering design

Textiles have developed high‐quality materials on the basis of highly developed but empirical craft skills. The second half of the 20th century resulted in many academic papers on the analysis of the applied mechanics of fibre assemblies. However, although these researches led to useful qualitative insights, there was almost no quantitative application by the industry. Several factors indicate that the time is now ripe for a change to an engineering design culture. There are major challenges in dealing with assemblies of millions of fibres, with non‐linear, visco‐elastic‐plastic mechanical properties, in anisotropic structures subject to large deformations and strains. The paper describes two approaches to accessible model: fibre rope modelling and TechText CAD. The most useful methodology for modelling yarns, woven fabrics and fabric buckling, is discussed. The priority is to develop a software that industry uses, thus setting up a creative interchange, which will lead to advances.