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Purpose

The designing and initial alignments of 2D garment patterns in 3D space are the key procedures in 3D apparel design. This paper presents a new methodology to prepare and edit initial pattern shape in 3D space by simulating virtual cloth scissoring.

Design/methodology/approach

In conventional apparel CAD tools, flat 2D patterns are drawn and sewn in 3D space. Thus, the final appearance of 3D garment cannot be easily predictable for non‐specialized personnel from the flat patterns. This paper adopts the real pattern designing method of “draping”, incorporating it into computer‐based designing so that the user can realistically cut, sew and add the cloth by only using a mouse. 2D and 3D meshes are edited simultaneously and thus a flattening process is not needed.

Findings

Several mesh‐based operations such as cutting, sewing, adding, and fixing are devised and have been successfully applied to virtual garment cutting.

Practical implications

Our new pattern drawing method has an advantage that designer can look and feel the garment appearance interactively during the design process. Virtual cutting is identical to the real pattern draping technique and is easy to adopt for designers.

Originality/value

With current computer hardware speed and through using the drape simulation technique, it was possible to drape and cut cloth in real‐time. In addition, both the 3D pattern and 2D flat pattern could be simultaneously acquired.

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