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Purpose

The aim of this paper is to explore a method of predicting the amount of personalized bra cup dart in the 3D virtual environment for supporting the made‐to‐measure research of the optimum fitted brassiere pattern design.

Design/methodology/approach

Very useful enhanced FFD (free‐form‐deformation) techniques used in both computer animation and geometric modeling were skillfully transplanted to the female breast model deformation. Meanwhile, on the basis of 3D scan and surface modeling technologies, the realization approach of the abstract female breast model library focusing on the individual variations of shapes and sizes was presented. Then according to the principle of isometric area and flabellate segments, the personalized bra cup dart quantity and its distributive information were provided by 3D‐2D transformation.

Findings

The paper finds that personalized female breast shapes and various aesthetic breast forms sculpted by different bras could be interactively simulated. Accordingly, the amount of corresponding individual bra cup dart and its distributive information were provided. The cup darts were mainly distributed below the bust line. Moreover, dart shapes were curvy.

Research limitations/implications

The principles of virtual breast library construction and 3D‐2D transformation are also suitable for other parts of the human body such as buttocks, abdomen and, etc. for intimate apparel research.

Originality/value

The method of predicting the personalized bra cup dart quantity based on the 3D virtual breast model library was delivered for the first time. The novel findings provided an important guideline for designers to improve the well‐fitted bra pattern design technique. Furthermore, it would reduce the manufacturing cost without keeping physical dummies.

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