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Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to develop an automated custom-pattern-making system using the width-height independent grading method for semi-customized clothing.

Design/methodology/approach

– The system reads basic patterns and graded large patterns and calculates the grading ratio of independent horizontal and vertical values on all points in a pattern. The custom pattern is automatically generated by calculating the horizontal and vertical grading amount according to individual body measurements. The system does not follow any complicated alteration rules.

Findings

– The width-height independent grading method can provide custom-pattern fitted primary body circumference and length and helps to quickly produce semi-customized clothing.

Originality/value

– There are few studies on automated custom-pattern-making systems without an alteration rule. This study developed an automatic custom-pattern-making system using the width-height independent grading method.

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