Communications: “engineering” the extensibility and formability of wool fabrics to improve garment appearance

Observes that the formability of woven fabric has a major effect on the appearance of garments, in that seams sewn from fabrics with low formability are more likely to pucker than those sewn from fabric with high formability. Describes the concept of formability and illustrates the relationship between this parameter and seam pucker, the difficulty of a particular sewing operation and the appearance of structured jackets. Notes that the formability of wool fabrics is most appropriately controlled in finishing by modifying the extensibility of the fabric. Discusses the difficulties associated with engineering, the extensibility of woven fabrics and the implications for other fabric properties, such as relaxation shrinkage.