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Progress of collaboration for ideal fabric developments

Some time ago, as reported in a previous editorial in IJCST, several UK fabric manufacturers took part in a technical mission to Italy and Japan. The mission findings verified concerns expressed by the industrial community that there was little innovation,investment in new and efficient plant and machinery and no working together on new ideas. Although the UK industry still enjoys a high reputation for tradition and quality, most companies operate in an insular manner. It was on the basis of more openness and for sharing the risk of innovation that the White Rose Initiative was founded about two years ago.

A group of companies comprising of yarn spinners, weavers, dyers and finishers and designers work together each season on innovative yarns andfabrics under the Ideal British Wool Congress which through COMIT of the University of Bradford product development, testing and measurement research centre of excellence, create ideal fabric collections every season. The fabrics have the reputation of having engineered the aesthetic and performance requirements that apparel manufacturers need, by using new innovative research methods which are deliverables of academic research projects. These fabrics are marketed by the mills and by the British Wool Textile Export Corporation in International fairs such as the industry standard Premier Vision in Paris every Spring and Autumn. Companies pay a membership fee to join the initiative, which is currently subsidised by EU and government grants, and there are 16 active member companies at present.

This season's fabrics are based on the concepts of character and performance, using the unique properties of wool in special constructions or in conjunction with other natural or synthetic fibres. The common theme of yarns, fabric construction and colour are selected each season by the members having been certified under the Ideal Fabric Protocol. Considerable publicity and commercial success has already benefited the member companies at a time when markets are very difficult. Innovative fabrics have been made with blending wool and Tencel, wool with cotton, and use of PVA yarn. The group has pioneered in making fabrics with mechanical stretch characteristics and also inducing other aesthetic effects. The British Wool Marketing Board has awarded the 1998 innovation prize to a White Rose fabric promoted by Reuben Gaunt Ltd.

The participating companies for this season's Premier Vision collection include:

John Crowther & Sons LtdFinerwool LtdReuben Gaunt & Sons LtdS. Jerome & Sons LtdW. Whitehead & Sons LtdJames Drummond &Sons LtdJohn Foster& Sons LtdHield Brothers LtdOMC Ltd

This is an example of how working together can bring commercial success to industry.

For further information please contact Mr J. Watson at the following address: White Rose Initiative, Business& Innovation Centre, Bradford BD7 1BX; Tel:(0)1274 841365; Fax: (0)1274 841415.

George K. StyliosEditor in Chief

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