Natural oils have recently emerged as sustainable alternatives to synthetic fatliquors for improving the performance and environmental profile of leather. In this study, the surface, mechanical, and structural properties of chrome-tanned cattle leather treated with natural oils – juniper, tansy, and almond – were examined to assess their potential as eco-friendly finishing agents. The treated leathers were tested for tensile strength, elongation, flexural resistance, water absorption, water permeability, and shrinkage temperature, while structural changes were characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). The results showed that natural oils enhanced the functional performance of leather by improving flexibility, water resistance, and structural uniformity. Almond oil gave the highest elongation and surface softness; juniper oil effectively filled interfibrillar voids and increased compactness, while tansy oil improved tensile strength and smoothness. SEM images confirmed fewer microcracks and better surface uniformity after oil treatment. FTIR spectra demonstrated the integration of oil-derived functional groups into the collagen matrix, indicating interactions responsible for hydrophobicity and stabilization. Overall, natural oil treatment produced smoother, more flexible, and thermally stable leather surfaces, demonstrating a sustainable and effective method for surface finishing and lubrication in leather processing.
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19 August 2026
Research Article|
June 26 2026
Enhancing surface and functional properties of chrome-tanned leather using natural oils
Saltanat Sabyrkhanova
;
Saltanat Sabyrkhanova
Department of Technology and Design of Textile Materials,
Higher School of Textile and Food Engineering, M.Auezov South Kazakhstan University
, Shymkent, Republic of Kazakhstan
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Nilay Ork Efendioglu
Department of Leather Engineering, Faculty of engineering,
Ege University
, Izmir, Türkiye
Corresponding author Nilay Ork Efendioglu (nilay.ork@ege.edu.tr)
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Corresponding author Nilay Ork Efendioglu (nilay.ork@ege.edu.tr)
Publisher: Emerald Publishing
Received:
October 23 2025
Accepted:
May 20 2026
Online ISSN: 2050-6260
Print ISSN: 2050-6252
Funding
Funding Group:
- Award Group:
- Funder(s): Science Committee of the Ministry of Education and Science of the Republic of Kazakhstan
- Award Id(s): AP25793771
- Funder(s):
- Funding Statement(s): This research was funded by the Science Committee of the Ministry of Education and Science of the Republic of Kazakhstan (Grant No. AP25793771 Development of environmentally friendly textile processing technology and the use of tansy and walnut agro-waste).
© 2026 Emerald Publishing Limited
2026
Emerald Publishing Limited
Licensed re-use rights only
Surface Innovations (2026) 14 (5): 231–244.
Article history
Received:
October 23 2025
Accepted:
May 20 2026
Citation
Sabyrkhanova S, Ork Efendioglu N (2026), "Enhancing surface and functional properties of chrome-tanned leather using natural oils". Surface Innovations, Vol. 14 No. 5 pp. 231–244, doi: https://doi.org/10.1680/jsuin.25.00090
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