...T O DONOGHUE; J SUTHERLAND © Thomas Telford and ICE 1999 ABERDEEN UNIVERSITY HR WALLINGFORD UK COASTAL RESEARCH FACILITY COASTS STRUCTURES COASTAL RANDOM WAVES KINEMATICS LINEAR THEORY METHODS PREDICTION EMPIRICAL EQUATIONS REFLECTION COEFFICIENTS PHASE SHIFT...

... & The distributions of velocity potential over the water column for deriving both the mild-slope equation and the Boussinesq equations have been uni®ed. New equations of the Boussinesq type are derived by using the variational principle. The derived non-linear equations approach the Boussinesq equations in shallow...