... SPECTRA OBLIQUE RESEARCH SURFACE ELEVATION WATER PARTICLES VELOCITY SPEED BEDS SHEAR STRESS EXPERIMENTS STEEP NON LINEAR INCIDENT BEHAVIOUR LINEAR ESTIMATES MARITIME MARITIME ENGINEERING HYDRAULICS HYDRODYNAMICS INTERACTION SHORT CRESTED THREE DIMENSIONAL REFLECTIVE ACOUSTICS...

... & The distributions of velocity potential over the water column for deriving both the mild-slope equation and the Boussinesq equations have been uni®ed. New equations of the Boussinesq type are derived by using the variational principle. The derived non-linear equations approach the Boussinesq equations in shallow...