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Purpose

Traditional stone enzyme washing requires significant amounts of pumice stones, raising environmental concerns like water wastage, pollution and fabric damage. This study investigates enzyme-driven denim washing as a sustainable alternative, aiming to reduce pumice stone usage while preserving fabric quality. The research focuses on comparing the effects of neutral and acidic cellulase enzymatic treatments on fabric strength, color retention and comfort.

Design/methodology/approach

Several parameters were investigated to understand the effects of enzyme-based denim washing techniques, using neutral and acidic cellulase treatments under varying conditions. Fabric parameters included weight (g/m²), tear and tensile strength, colorimetric values (L*, a*, b*) and hue angle, which varied based on stone quantity and enzyme type. In addition, comfort levels are assessed using a hand-feel assessment.

Findings

This study demonstrates that neutral cellulase treatment preserved up to 85% of the fabric’s tensile strength while reducing pumice stone usage by over 91%, from 12 kg to just 1 kg, achieving uniform and consistent color fading. In contrast, acidic cellulase treatments, although effective in dye removal, led to greater fabric degradation and uneven fading. Neutral cellulase emerged as a more sustainable and cost-effective alternative, significantly lowering water usage, minimizing fabric damage, and enhancing hand feel (comfort). This positions it as a practical solution for producing eco-friendly denim products.

Originality/value

This research explores enzymatic washing of denim by reducing pumice size and varying enzyme types and concentrations. It provides valuable insights into how these variables influence tensile strength, color fading, comfort and the environmental footprint, all under significantly reduced pumice usage. This innovative approach offers a balanced methodology that preserves fabric integrity while promoting eco-friendly practices, contributing meaningful advancements to sustainable denim processing.

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