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This is a survey of antique needlework tools from the seventeenth century through to the Edwardian era. Needlework tools have been used by man ever since primitive clothes were devised. Early implements would probably have been sharp and pointed, and used to make holes so that garments could be sewn together. In all likelihood, a tool was developed that could be used to thread fibre through holes, leading to the birth of the bodkin and, later, the needle. A form of pusher would also have been used to protect the finger, leading to the development of the thimble.

The earliest needlework tools for collectors today date from the seventeenth century, which is where this survey begins. The author has largely arranged chapters chronologically and linked the needlework tools of specific periods to the current style of embroidery and social background. Needlework tools of the seventeenth century were heavy and made of silver, which the author relates to the raised and padded embroidery of the time, now known as stumpwork. The author goes on to examine the finer tools of the Georgian era and the introduction of lighter, more delicate embroideries. Fine embroidery was, however, very much a pastime for the upper classes, and with the exception of examples of utilitarian Victorian English sewing sets, this survey does tend to cover the type of tools used by rich ladies. From the late eighteenth century on we see the development of boxes made specifically to hold ladies’ needlework tools. This survey includes very useful chapters on both Georgian and nineteenth century sewing boxes and work tables. The author has also been particularly successful in relating tools to their actual use and has included chapters on both Victorian and Edwardian crafts. Also included is a glossary and extensive bibliography. All chapters are well illustrated with mainly colour photographs.

Antique Needlework Tools and Embroideries has been very well researched and written, contributing greatly to the literature and knowledge of the subject. It is likely to become the standard work of reference on needlework tools, drawing together information from recent research and different countries. It is certainly an essential buy for those interested in collecting needlework tools, aiding identification and providing some indication of how implements were used.

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