Footprint guides are well regarded as a series and the first edition of this guide to Croatia is no exception. They are particularly useful for independently minded travellers who wish to escape the crowd. The author of this handbook lives in Split and has a first hand knowledge of this wonderful country. So, as well as being able to describe the tourist hotspots such as Dubrovnik and Split, she also explores the whole of Croatia in great detail and describes many places where the package tourist would simply not set foot.
I had first hand experience of Croatia for the first time in 2002, so I can warmly recommend this guide for the in‐depth descriptions of the country and beautiful coastal areas. The guide takes the usual Footprint format of, first, giving an overview of the country with maps and photographs – all in colour – followed by an extensive chapter on all the essentials such as getting there, what to take, travel within the country, accommodation and eating, culture, holidays and communications. As usual, there is the added bonus of highlighted “boxes” of information giving, for example, the top ten diving sites, how to prepare Turkish coffee, and the history of the tie – yes – that vital item of the male wardrobe, which actually originated in Croatia as the cravat.
Then the guide is divided into several geographical sections, each describing in detail a major region of this rather strangely shaped country – on the map it could be likened to a boomerang. First to come under scrutiny is inland Croatia and Zagreb – the capital city. Parts of Zagreb closely resemble the old city of Prague, whereas other parts are full of grandiose Habsburgian buildings interspersed by tree‐lined boulevards.
The next section moves on to Istria, a large triangular section of Croatia, which borders Italy. Pula is the major city and port and dates back to Roman times – so visitors will not be surprised to find a large Roman Forum as the main square and a huge Roman amphitheatre which is the sixth largest in Europe. There are beautiful coastal resorts in this region too. Here one can swim in the clear and warm Adriatic Sea, and inland, one can find the local truffles, which are highly prized by gourmets the world over.
Between Istria and Dalmatia lies the region known as Kvarner – a long narrow area with many offshore islands. The capital of this region is the rather austere port of Rijeka where last year, I spent an extremely uncomfortable night in the Hotel Continental. A good description of the offshore islands follows – many are sparsely populated and attract birdwatchers and fishermen – before we reach Dalmatia and some of the better‐known tourist spots of southern Croatia. North Dalmatia has Zadar as its main port. The town is packed with Roman ruins, Byzantine churches and Venetian‐style townhouses. Offshore lie the 90 or so scattered islands, which make up the Kornati National Park. These islands are dry, rocky and practically devoid of vegetation – indeed, as we viewed them from our coastal drive, they looked like a strange moonscape surrounded by the sea.
Travelling south, we reach central Dalmatia with the city of Split – famous for Diocletian's Roman Palace, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and still being restored and excavated. South lies the island of Hvar and the charming Hvar Town with its magnificent main square and café life. There are many islands offshore here and all worth a visit, especially by boat. Travel further south still and visitors will find themselves in southern Dalmatia, which is long, narrow coastal strip, dramatically backed up by the Dinaric Alps, which form the natural border with Bosnia‐Herzegovina. Urban life here centres on Dubrovnik – an architect's dream completely encircled by ancient defensive walls. To walk around these is a must for all visitors and a highpoint of any visit to the city.
All of these regional sections contain useful information on getting about, hotels, eating out, places to visit and the history of the region. All information has been carefully researched and paints a very accurate picture for visitors. There follows a chapter on the history of Croatia – once part of Tito's Yugoslavia. Prehistoric sites can be found, but it is most famous for its Roman remains – some of the best in Eastern Europe. The region was fought over by the Venetians, the Turks, the Hungarians and the Mongols and at one time was part of the Ottoman Empire. Then the Habsburgs arrived and attempted to germanise the region – not a popular move – only to be followed sometime later by Napoleon who was even less popular. The First and Second World Wars brought even more chaos to this already fragmented part of Eastern Europe and it was only when all the states including Croatia were united under Tito's Yugoslavia that prosperity began to return to the region. Yugoslavia could only hold together under a charismatic personality such as Tito, and when he died, trouble began to brew. By 1991, Serbs and Croats were at one another's throats. Eventually, after the UN stepped in, fighting ceased and Croatia was finally at peace and now plans to enter the EU in 2007.
After this, we can read about Croatian culture, music, cinema, architecture and language too with a useful list of books and a short glossary of words and phrases. This guide serves as a background to the country and its history and is not purely (as in the case of some guides) a list of things to see and do. It is invaluable as an introduction to the area and a fascinating armchair guide for those not intending to visit. However, once readers have absorbed the many fascinating facts contained within the pages, they will undoubtedly wish to visit and would be well advised to do so before prices go up – taking this excellent work with them.
