Winifred Aldrich has produced a number of pattern books that are a mainstay for any student undertaking a design or pattern technology course. As the title suggests, this book moves away from her traditional flat pattern techniques to include information on fabrics and their properties that have relevance to fashion designers and pattern cutters.
In the introduction the author explains the reasoning behind the publication, the importance of the fabric (emphasised by looking at the characteristics of weight, thickness, shear, drape and stretch) to the designer and pattern cutter. There is an explanation of the changes made to this second edition with a simpler method of fabric estimation and an extra chapter on aspects of technical drawing.
The author starts the publication with a technical overview of fabric, including a brief resume of fibre production and new fibre developments. Then moving onto the characteristics of fabric in relation to their weight, thickness, stretch etc. and how this can be assessed and utilized to the best advantage. This section includes photographs of various fabric types which are a useful addition to the written description, especially when they are shown gathered or pleated.
From an analysis of the fabric Ms Aldrich moves to “fabric and form” where she discusses the way different fabrics react in simple garment shapes. This is illustrated by photographs of the toiles, using different fabrics, on stands. These photographs are in black and white, in order (the author states) that the eye is not distracted by colour, and concentrates on the shape achieved. This works very well, the same styles, produced in different fabrics show clearly how the overall shape of the garment is altered by the properties of the fabrics used.
In addition to the photographs strong line drawings are employed to illustrate different styles. These drawings (quite unlike the usual style of illustration used in a Winifred Aldrich book) are shown on a stand, so tying into the photographs and giving a cohesive feel to the work.
Part two of the fabric and form section moves to illustrating the style by photographing the styles on a model. Although this method of showing images allows body movement and its effect on shape to be shown very clearly there could be a danger in the future of this section developing a “dated” look.
The pattern‐cutting elements of the publication are, as usual with any book of Ms Aldrich's, clear, concise and well illustrated. The block manipulation to the final pattern shape is easy to follow and students will welcome the lucid depiction of the pattern manipulation.
Within this work there is a section on combining fabrics that have inherently different properties. Again the toiles for this section are show photographically, on stands and on models. There are examples of “sympathetic” and “contrasting” fabric combinations which will encourage students to explore the different methods illustrated.
The final section of this work discusses the addition of structure to a garment by the addition of wiring, boning, padding and interlining. Again this is well illustrated and the pattern manipulation is clear and easy to follow.
In addition to the discussion of the role of fabrics in pattern manipulation this book has a section on model figures and garment blocks. The model section is designed to assist students in the construction of technical drawings and consists of stands shown from various views and models in a variety of poses. This could be of considerable help to students, however it may have been of even more use if the waist, bust line, side seam etc. were clearly defined so that students could balance their drawings more easily.
The fifth‐scale pattern blocks are very useful; there are instructions on how to produce full scale versions and photographs that depict toiles of the blocks. Again the whole section is clear and well presented and engaging to students.
Fabric, Form and Flat Pattern Cutting, although visually a departure from Winifred Aldrich's usual pattern‐cutting book, is a thorough presentation of the effects of fabrics on pattern cutting. Students will find it useful and appealing.
