Think of Greece and one does not usually think of railways. The Acropolis, the Aegean, Mount Olympus and Delphi, yes, but not the fact that Greek railways offer a cheap and relaxing means of discovering a Greece rarely visited by most travellers. This guide makes it possible to base an entire visit to Greece, travelling to the far corners of Thrace or the Peloponnese, using the trains for short, scenic hops between major points such as Patras and Corinth, long hauls between Athens and Salonika, or even within the Athens‐Piraeus metropolis. The trailheads of many of the ancient mountain paths can be reached by train, and the variety of new and old rail rolling stock, track gauges and operating procedures will interest rail enthusiasts.
I once went by train to Greece. I got off at Salonika (Thessaloniki nowadays) to try hitch‐hiking to Turkey. After three hours “thumbing” I went back to the station and got the train instead! The journey to Istanbul was, as they say, interesting. Had I had Greece by Rail I would have saved myself some inconvenience and learned much about the country. Chapter 15, Thessaloniki‐Ormenio (Bulgaria), tells me about the general frequency of the trains on that line, gives tips about travel ‐ the smell of diesel in the front carriages for instance ‐ and what to see along the way. The note about improvements such as the strengthened track to allow faster trains reminds me how slow the journey was all those pre‐librarian days ago, and the account of how one used to be woken in the middle of the night at the Greek‐Turkish border to change carriages and the “long, sloppy and unprofessional customs and immigration controls ... seemingly designed to create maximum discomfort and embarrassment” stir a long‐forgotten memory. Even now, we are advised, political differences can interfere with travel. But I would also have learned of the history of the towns on the route, of things to see and places to stay. I would also have learned which side of the carriage to sit to get the best views!
Thirteen chapters detail the routes in various parts of Greece, with enough detail to plan an itinerary and to explore places en route. There is a preliminary chapter giving practical information on getting to Greece and being in Greece, and a second chapter on the Hellenic Railways Organisation (OSE). Three chapters at the end suggest itineraries, often combining rail travel with ferries and buses. Appendices cover further reading and gradient profiles, and there is an index. There are route diagrams, an order form for a European Rail Pass and an advert for a European rail timetable and a map. There are some colour pictures of some of the places one can visit by train; and the book will fit into pocket or travel bag.
I have to admit the sketch maps are a disappointment. Although they clearly give the outline routes, they do not feature many of the places such as rivers and mountains mentioned in the text, while a key map linking the individual regional route diagrams would have been useful. My first reaction to this book was to ask why yet another guide book to Greece was needed. Michelin, Fodor, Rough, Phaidon, Baedeker, Collins, Lonely Planet ... guidebooks to Greece are legion. But this is different. Rail travel is different, and I hope this guide by the enterprising Bradt organisation succeeds. I don’t quite see it on reference library shelves, but it will be an excellent reference guide on the journey, and the planning thereof.
