Prelims

Pioneering New Perspectives in the Fashion Industry

Pioneering New Perspectives in the Fashion Industry: Disruption, Diversity and Sustainable Innovation

Edited by

Elaine L. Ritch

Glasgow Caledonian University, UK

Catherine Canning

Glasgow Caledonian University, UK

And

Julie McColl

Heriot Watt University, UK

United Kingdom – North America – Japan – India – Malaysia – China

Emerald Publishing Limited

Howard House, Wagon Lane, Bingley BD16 1WA, UK

First edition 2023

Editorial matter and selection © 2023 Elaine L. Ritch, Catherine Canning, and Julie McColl.

Individual chapters © 2023 the authors.

Published under exclusive licence by Emerald Publishing Limited.

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British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

ISBN: 978-1-80382-348-5 (Print)

ISBN: 978-1-80382-345-4 (Online)

ISBN: 978-1-80382-347-8 (Epub)

Dr Bethan Alexander is a Senior Lecturer in Fashion Retailing and Consumer Experience, Research Coordinator for the Fashion Business School at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, London, UK. Bethan’s scholarly research interests span Multi-Sensory Fashion Retailing, Customer Experiences Online and Offline, Innovative Retail Formats, Retail technologies and Future Retailing. She is an inaugural member of the Designing Retail and Services Futures Special Interest Group, Design Research Society, Regional Editor for Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases, Senior Fellow of the Higher Education Academy and Fellow of the Royal Society of Arts. Bethan regularly presents her research at prestigious academic conferences and industry events. She is currently visiting professor at Politecnico di Milano in the School of Design. She champions research informed teaching and leverages her extensive networks in collaborating with industry and academics internationally. Bethan is a published author, mentor and thought leader.

Dr Huifeng Bai is a Senior Lecturer in Marketing and Public Relations at the Liverpool John Moores University. After obtained his Ph.D. from the Glasgow Caledonian University, he worked there as a Lecturer in Fashion Marketing and Retailing. His research interests focus on international luxury fashion marketing and retailing.

Michelle Blair Gabriel is the Sustainable Fashion Graduate Program Director at Glasgow Caledonian New York College and a PhD candidate at the Yunus Centre for Social Business and Health at Glasgow Caledonian University. Her research is focussed on policy dynamics for the global fashion industry.

Dr Rosy Boardman is a Senior Lecturer in Fashion Business at The University of Manchester. Her research primarily focusses on digital strategy and innovation in the fashion retail industry, utilising eye tracking and qualitative research methods. Her interest is in exploring fashion retail’s current and future developments, particularly in relation to how technology can be used to help solve issues relating to both environmental and social sustainability, as well as improving the customer experience. She has published several peer-reviewed papers in world-leading journals as well as two books and has been invited as a key note speaker at various universities / conferences based on her eye tracking & digital marketing expertise.

Dr Taylor Brydges is a Postdoctoral Researcher at the University of Technology Sydney and the University of Toronto Mississauga. She completed her HBA in Urban Studies and a MA in Human Geography at the University of Toronto, Canada, and her PhD at Uppsala University, Sweden. Using the fashion industry as a case, her research explores economic competitiveness, digitalisation, innovation, and the circular economy in the cultural and creative industries.

Catherine Canning is a Senior Lecturer in Consumer Behaviour at Glasgow Caledonian University and leads consumer behaviour modules for undergraduates, post graduates, and industry practitioners. She supports new staff and as Mentor Lead, has coached and mentored staff and students for many years. Deeply concerned about climate change, her teaching explores consumption and the links between behaviour, sustainability and change makers. Her research involves sustainable consumption, circular and vintage fashion, and leads a module Consumer Behaviour and Sustainable Fashion for masters students. Her work is published in peer reviewed international journals and textbooks.

Dr Courtney Chrimes is a Lecturer in Fashion Digital Media at Manchester Metropolitan University. She was awarded her EPSRC DTA Funded PhD in 2021 from The University of Manchester, which investigates how fashion product page design affects garment fit appraisal online through a mixed-methods enquiry. Her research primarily focuses on online website design, digital marketing, consumer behaviour, e-commerce and digital innovation, utilising a combination of both qualitative and quantitative methods of enquiry.

Eileen Conlan is an Experienced Marketing Lecturer and the Programme Leader for BA Business & Marketing (Hons) at the University of the West of Scotland. She aligns her academic research interests with her industry experience consulting in marketing strategy and marketing communications. Her PhD study relates to measuring customer satisfaction.

Stephen A. Doyle is a Senior Lecturer in Fashion Marketing at the University of Manchester. His research themes include fashion product development, social media/social commerce and cultural identity. He is also involved in a number of EDIA initiatives and roles within and beyond the University.

Noelle Hatley is a Senior Lecturer teaching Fashion Business and Product Development at Manchester Metropolitan University, following a 25-year career in the fashion industry. She completed her Masters by Research in January 2021 which focussed on the unsustainability of the fashion industry, specifically how fast fashion brands and consumers can be persuaded to slow down fashion consumption.

Dr Claudia E. Henninger is a Reader in Fashion Marketing Management, with a research interest in sustainability, the circular economy, and more specifically collaborative consumption, in the context of the fashion industry. Claudia is further the Chair of the Academy of Marketing’s SIG Sustainability and an Executive Member of the Sustainable Fashion Consumption Network.

Paula Hirschgänger is a 2021 BA (Hons) International Fashion Branding graduate from Glasgow Caledonian University. After writing her dissertation on climate activists’ fashion consumption behaviours, she completed a Master’s degree in Supply Chain and Sustainability Management, focussing on the potential of digital product passports for more transparency in the fashion industry. She is now pursuing a career in supply chain management.

Julie Hodson is a Senior Lecturer in Fashion Business at Manchester Metropolitan University and has 20 plus years’ experience in multi-channel retailing on a global scale and an experienced teaching professional. Julie specialises in researching, evaluating, negotiations and global sourcing strategies. Julie also has an established portfolio in leading multiple teams.

Anjali Iyer is pursuing a Fellowship Programme at MICA in India and researching sustainability in fashion, primarily the cultural impact of such practices. She holds a Master’s degree in Fashion Management from NIFT (Bengaluru) and previously worked as an Assistant Professor at Karnavati University and for international fashion retailers in India.

Dr Aude Le Guennec, Design Anthropologist, leads the programme ‘Future Heritage’ at Glasgow School of Art-Innovation School (Scotland). From her academic background as Fashion Director at the School of Textiles and Design (Heriot-Watt University, Scotland) and first career as the keeper of the Textile and Fashion Museum (Cholet, France), Aude has developed a specific interest in the way fashion informs the society. Specialising in Children’s material culture, Aude publishes extensively and shares her research on inclusive, participative and sustainable children’s fashion internationally.

Mairi Lowe is a Scottish Content Marketer, Systems Practitioner and MSc Social Innovation graduate based in Edinburgh. Focussing on sustainable fashion in Scotland, her research involves navigating complex challenges through a systems change perspective. She is the Creative Director at Sustainable Fashion Scotland, a community-led nonprofit exploring through practice, how communities can take collective action to create place-based sustainable transformations.

Ruth Marciniak is a Senior Lecturer in the British School of Fashion at Glasgow Caledonian University, with expertise in the field of fashion digital marketing, retailing and logistics. She obtained her PhD from Manchester University, which explored strategic planning in e-commerce. She is programme leader for MSc Fashion and Lifestyle Marketing at GCU London where she supervises PhD students. She has over 30 years’ experience of working as an academic in the university sector and has written articles, book chapters and has presented at international conferences for over 20 years.

Julie McColl is an Assistant Professor at Heriot Watt University. Her areas of teaching are branding, fashion branding, marketing strategy and contemporary issues in marketing. Her areas of research are luxury brand strategy, fashion branding, vintage fashion and social enterprise. She is the co-author of New Perspectives on Critical Marketing and Consumer Society.

Karina McGowan is an Experienced Marketing and Fashion Marketing Lecturer. She leads on modules including consumer behaviour, branding and marketing communications. Her research interests are in fashion supply chain management. Current academic and consultancy projects have focussed on luxury brand management, marketing sustainable luxury and operationalising fashion rental and resale.

Julia Michalowska is a BA (Hons) International Fashion Business Class of 2020 graduate with distinction from Glasgow Caledonian University and is currently an MSc International Fashion Marketing student at GCU. With a passion for academia, she is an aspiring PhD candidate with dedicated research on contemporary fashion behaviour among Gen Z and Generation Alpha.

Professor Christopher M. Moore is Principal and Chief Executive of New College Lanarkshire and was previously, among other senior roles, the Founding Director of the British School of Fashion at Glasgow Caledonian University. Christopher’s research has focussed upon institutional structures, international market expansion, sustainability and brand strategy within the luxury and fashion goods sectors.

Dr Daria Morozova is a Lecturer of Fashion and Marketing at Glasgow Caledonian University (UK). Her research interests include sustainable consumption, consumption of fashion and 3D/digital clothing. Her PhD (Aalborg University, Denmark) was focussed on wearable technology and its implications for different forms of sustainability.

Abhilash Sugunan Nair is a PhD candidate and a part-time Lecturer in the British School of Leadership and Management at GCU London, specialising in the areas of digital marketing and social media, influencer marketing and human brand equity.

Jane Owoloyi Obonyilo is a Doctoral candidate in Fashion Policy at the British School of Fashion, Glasgow Caledonian University (GCU) London. Before commencing her PhD, she earned a Master’s degree with distinction in Fashion Business Creation (FBC) from GCU, London. Her PhD thesis explores fashion policy approaches in Sub-Saharan Africa, with specific reference to the Fashionomics Initiative of the African Development Bank (AfDB).

Dr Patsy Perry is a Reader in Fashion Marketing at Manchester Metropolitan University (UK). She is an experienced educator and researcher with a PhD in Corporate Social Responsibility. Her work is published in international journals and textbooks, and her expertise on fashion sustainability is often featured in the press and broadcast media. She is an Associate Editor for the Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management.

Dr Elaine L. Ritch is a Reader in Fashion, Marketing and Sustainability at Glasgow Caledonian University and she is the Programme Leader for BA(hons) International Marketing. Her co-edited book New Perspectives in Critical Marketing and Consumer Society, was published in March 2021 and underpins much of the theories and concepts within this current book. She has presented her research at international conferences and has published in international journals and contributed to numerous book chapters. She has made significant contributions to the sustainable fashion literature over the last decade and has adopted novel methodologies to explore consumer perceptions, including with young children as they reflect on Eco-School activities. She is also a Fellow of the Higher Education Academy and a Member of the Sustainable Fashion Scotland Steering Group. She leads the research group ‘Consumer Lifestyles and Experiences’ and teaches New Perspectives in Critical Marketing and Consumer Society. Her approach to research and teaching is very much driven by the ‘Common Weal’ (Scots for Common Good) and the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals.

Joanne Shin is a 2020 MA graduate from the Fashion Retail Management course led by Dr Bethan Alexander at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, London, UK. She is currently pursuing a career in global retailing and marketing.

Noreen Q. Siddiqui is a Senior Lecturer in Marketing at the University of Glasgow in Scotland. Her research interests include digital communication, fashion, sustainably, retailing and marketing education. Her PhD from Glasgow Caledonian University was in the Development of Internet Retailing by High Street Fashion retailers. She teaches digital and social media marketing and supervises PhD students in digital marketing communications.

We would like to acknowledge the opportunity to engage with students, colleagues internally and globally, networks and industry colleagues to have many interesting and insightful conversations on topics which are of deep importance to us, such as fashion; sustainability; equality, justice and diversity. Some of these conversations form this book – many others are still waiting to be had. We hope that this book will act as a stimulus for you to find and express your voice and join our conversation.