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This study was initiated in order to develop a system for made‐to‐measure (MTM) pattern generation with special reference to computer‐aided design (CAD) applications. Recognition of the relationship between body figuration and pattern construction is essential for the production of MTM clothing with good fit. By linking theory and practice, a methodology has been developed for research in this field from female figure typing through sizing, pattern design construction and grading to pattern alteration. The study is divided into three parts. In the first part, the background to women's sizing systems and categorisation of female figure types is discussed, and a new system of size codes and size charts is proposed.

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