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Purpose

To examine the impact of changes in the US textile and apparel industries on employment patterns at the state level compared with the nation as a whole during the period of 1997‐2003.

Design/methodology/approach

Secondary data sources were analyzed to develop an overall picture of changes happening in the North Carolina industries compared with the USA overall. A focus on North Carolina, a primary location of the industries within the USA, permits a micro‐level examination of changes in employment trends for one state in comparison with those of the industries nation‐wide. Three industries form the bulk of the data examined: Textile Mills (NAICS‐313), Textile Product Mills (NAICS‐314), and Apparel Manufacturing (NAICS‐315).

Findings

An overall decrease in employment and number of units for all three industries was found. The number of establishments in the North Carolina textile complex decreased by 25 percent and employment by almost 50 percent. The state losses resembled those of the nation as a whole. For the majority of industry groups, the trend in value of shipments mirrored the downward direction of employment from 1997 to 2001.

Research limitations/implications

Although this study focuses on only one state in comparison with the USA as a whole, it reveals current trends in employment patterns and has implications for developing an in‐depth picture of regional versus national industry performance during a period of decline.

Originality/value

Within this study, industry change was interpreted at both the state and national level through employment patterns as a means to explore why some industry groups have remained relatively healthy compared with others and what this means for industry employment in the future.

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