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Purpose

The purpose of this study is to investigate the institutionalization of reverse logistics (RL) in the Indian garment retail sector for post-consumer waste, identifying and classifying significant barriers within the framework of sustainable supply chain management and the circular economy.

Design/methodology/approach

This study uses a Delphi technique with 19 industry experts to carefully identify and assess obstacles to RL adoption. This research combines institutional theory and stakeholder theory to create a thorough comprehension of the barriers.

Findings

This research indicates that organizational resistance, budgetary limitations and inadequate regulatory frameworks are the primary obstacles to the institutionalization of RL in India’s garment retail industry. This study presents an innovative seven-dimensional framework emphasizing the interrelation of managerial, financial and regulatory challenges.

Research limitations/implications

This study’s results are specific to India’s apparel retail sector, perhaps restricting their generalizability. Future study may investigate parallels across industries or countries. This research offers practical recommendations for policymakers and supply chain managers to improve the adoption of RL in emerging markets.

Originality/value

This research enhances the literature on RL by examining the overlooked apparel retail sector in emerging economies, presenting a novel multi-dimensional framework and incorporating institutional and stakeholder theories to elucidate the constraints of RL adoption.

Reverse logistics (RL) is a crucial component of sustainable supply chain management (SSCM), enabling the transfer of goods, resources and information from consumption back to their origin for reuse, recycling or disposal (Plaza-Úbeda et al., 2021). As a fundamental component of the circular economy (CE), RL provides substantial environmental, economic and social advantages, such as waste reduction, resource optimization and carbon footprint reduction (U-Dominic et al., 2021). Nonetheless, despite its promise, the implementation of RL encounters significant obstacles, especially in emerging economies like India (Naseem et al., 2021; Sharma et al., 2011). The apparel industry, a significant source of global waste, poses distinct obstacles for the deployment of RL. The industry produces significant post-consumer waste because of brief product lifecycles, elevated customization requirements and labor-intensive processes (Gardas et al., 2018; Hedrich et al., 2021). The apparel retail business in India is a crucial economic contributor, anticipated to attain US$1.5tn by 2027 (IBEF, 2021). The sector’s swift expansion has intensified waste management issues, with few research addressing RL obstacles in this setting (Abraham, 2011; Jindal and Sangwan, 2013). Although RL constraints have been thoroughly examined in industries such as electronics and automotive (Bouzon et al., 2018; Dutta et al., 2021), the apparel retail sector in emerging nations, especially India as a global garment supplier, remains inadequately investigated. This study fills this gap by using the Delphi technique to systematically rank barriers through expert consensus, while incorporating institutional and stakeholder theories to establish a novel framework for RL adoption in price-sensitive marketplaces.

RL has emerged as a critical component of the CE and SSCM. The CE model prioritizes the reuse, recycling and upcycling of products to minimize waste and optimize resource utilization has gained significant traction in recent years [12, 13]. RL plays a pivotal role in this transition by facilitating the recovery of value from end-of-life products (Plaza-Úbeda et al., 2021; Stock, 1992). However, the adoption of RL is affected by a complex interplay of institutional, organizational and stakeholder elements which have been extensively discussed in literature.

Institutional theory posits that organizations implement practices in reaction to regulatory, normative and cultural-cognitive influences (Powell and DiMaggio, 2019). In the context of RL, regulatory pressures (e.g. environmental legislation) and normative pressures (e.g. industry benchmarks) may facilitate adoption, whereas cultural-cognitive hurdles (e.g. resistance to change) can impede it (Bouzon et al., 2018). For instance, Bouzon et al. (2018) illustrate how regulatory frameworks in developed economies have facilitated the adoption of RL, but in developing economies such as India, the lack of stringent regulations and enforcement mechanisms often serves as an impediment (Sharma et al., 2011).

Stakeholder theory, on the other hand, underscores the influence of multiple stakeholders, such as consumers, suppliers and regulators, in shaping RL practices (Freeman, 2010). Stakeholder theory posits that the efficacy of RL projects hinges on the alignment of interests and collaboration among these stakeholders. For example consumer awareness and demand for sustainable practices might facilitate RL adoption, whereas supplier resistance or inadequate infrastructure can hinder it (Dissanayake and Weerasinghe, 2022).This study integrates these theoretical perspectives to provide a thorough understanding of the barriers to RL adoption in the Indian apparel retail sector.

The apparel industry encounters distinct hurdles in adopting RL, such as short product lifecycles, variable demand and the transient nature of fashion trends (Gardas et al., 2018). These factors create distinct obstacles to RL, including challenges in deriving value from returned or end-of-life products and the lack of established recycling and reuse protocols (Dissanayake and Weerasinghe, 2022). In developing economies such as India, additional obstacles include fragmented supply chains, low consumer awareness and weak regulatory support (Mangla et al., 2022).

Despite the growing interest of RL practices in India driven by stringent environmental regulations (Agrawal and Singh, 2020), substantial obstacles remain. These include inadequate infrastructure, insufficient commitment from senior management, budgetary limitations and a lack of governmental assistance (Bouzon et al., 2016; Dutta et al., 2021). While studies have explored RL in sectors such as electronics and automotive (Koshta et al., 2021; Mathiyazhagan et al., 2013), the apparel retail sector in emerging economies remains underexplored. This study addresses this gap by focusing on the Indian apparel retail sectors and using the Delphi method to systematically categorize and prioritize RL barriers.

The transition from a linear economy to a CE has positioned RL as a critical component of SSCM. Resource recovery is a crucial enabler of CE principles, as it fosters the recovery, recycling and reuse of items, hence reducing waste and improving resource efficiency (Agrawal et al., 2015; MacArthur and Ellen MacArthur, 2015). However, the implementation of RL in the apparel retail industry has numerous challenges, particularly in developing countries like India. The issues can be categorized into economic, infrastructural, regulatory and operational limits, each of which is further upon below.

2.3.1 Economic challenges.

A primary obstacle to the adoption of RL is the high cost linked to its deployment. RL procedures, including product collection, transportation, sorting and recycling, necessitate significant financial investment (Bouzon et al., 2016). In the apparel retail sector, the economic feasibility of RL is further exacerbated by the low residual value of returned or end-of-life garments. In contrast to electronics or automotive products, which frequently maintain considerable value post-use, clothing items generally possess a shorter lifecycle and low resale potential (Gardas et al., 2018). This complicates the ability of firms to rationalize the expenses associated with RL, especially in price-sensitive markets such as India.

Furthermore, the lack of profitability in RL efforts significantly deters firms. Research by Abdulrahman et al. (2014) that merely 20% of firms in developing economies reported profitability from their RL activities, in contrast to 60% in developed economies. This gap underscores the economic obstacles to RL adoption in emerging markets, where financial limitations and unpredictable returns frequently surpass the prospective advantages.

2.3.2 Infrastructure challenges.

Insufficient infrastructure constitutes a significant obstacle to the deployment of RL in the apparel retail sector. Effective RL necessitates a resilient infrastructure for product acquisition, transportation and recycling. In developing economies such as India, the absence of centralized collection centers for waste treatment and product recovery presents considerable hurdles (Sharma et al., 2011). The lack of centralized collection sites and recycling facilities hinders enterprises from establishing effective RL systems.

Additionally, the apparel industry faces distinct infrastructure issues stemming from the variety of materials used in clothing production. In contrast to electronics or automotive products, which often consist of a restricted array of materials, garment items frequently comprise a combination of textiles, dyes and accessories. This complexity exacerbates the challenges of sorting and recycling, hence placing additional pressure on current infrastructure (Dissanayake and Weerasinghe, 2022).

2.3.3 Regulatory obstacles.

The regulatory environment plays a significant role in shaping RL practices. In developed economies, stringent rules like the European Union’s WEEE Directive have facilitated the development of RL by establishing a legal framework for product recovery and recycling (Bouzon et al., 2018). Conversely, developing economies such as India frequently lack robust regulatory frameworks for RL. Although environmental regulation is in place, enforcement is inadequate, and there are no explicit mandates for responsible leadership in the apparel retail industry (Dutta et al., 2021).

The lack of clear regulations generates ambiguity for enterprises, hindering their ability to strategize and invest in RL efforts. Furthermore, the absence of established recycling methods and quality benchmarks exacerbates the execution of RL techniques (Sharma et al., 2011). These regulatory challenges underscore the necessity for governmental intervention to facilitate the implementation of RL in the apparel retail sector.

2.3.4 Operational difficulties.

Operational inefficiencies are a substantial obstacle to the adoption of RL. The garment retail sector is defined by short product lifecycles, fluctuating demand and the transient nature of fashion trends (Gardas et al., 2018). These aspects present distinct operational concerns for RL, including difficulties in predicting returns, controlling inventories and maintaining product quality.

The significant variability in return rates and the uncertain state of returned products complicate the proper planning and execution of RL operations for firms (Jindal and Sangwan, 2013). Additionally, the lack of coordination among supply chain partners frequently results in inefficiencies in product collection and recycling, hence intensifying operational issues (Bouzon et al., 2016).

2.3.5 Integration with broader literature.

The challenges discussed and illustrated in Table 1 align with the results of prior research on RL in other industries and countries. Bouzon et al. (2018) observed analogous economic, infrastructural and regulatory impediments in the electronics and automotive industries, whereas Sharma et al. (2011) emphasized the operational difficulties of RL in the Indian setting. The garment retail industry faces distinct issues stemming from its products and supply chains, highlighting the need for industry-specific solutions.

Table 1.

Barriers to reverse logistics covered in the literature

Serial no.RL barriersDescriptionCodeRL sub-barriersReferences
1Management relatedThe competencies, incentives, degree of education and involvement of RL staff, as well as the dedication of senior management to RL methodologiesR1Absence of commitment and accountability from upper managementChileshe et al. (2015); Moktadir et al. (2020); Saruchera and Asante-Darko (2021) 
R2Lack of collaboration with RL professionals and SC partnersAgrawal et al. (2015); Campos et al. (2020); Cricelli et al. (2021); Plaza-Úbeda et al. (2021) 
R3Lack interest among stakeholders for RLBouzon et al. (2016); Prakash and Barua (2015); Waqas et al. (2018) 
R4Resistance to the departure from traditional practicesGomes da Silva and Gouveia (2020); Prakash et al. (2015); Waqas et al. (2018) 
R5Inadequate strategic planning to improve RL implementationsLara et al. (2019); Prajapati et al. (2019); U-Dominic et al. (2021) 
2Economical and financialCapabilities pertaining to economic aspects of RL implementation, such as investments, loans and finance.R6Availability of sufficient and timely capitalAbdulrahman et al. (2014); Agrawal et al. (2016); Bouzon et al. (2018) 
R7Minimal profitabilityAbdulrahman et al. (2014); Bouzon et al. (2018) 
R8Increased expense of adopting RLAbdulrahman et al. (2014); Chileshe et al. (2015) 
R9Uncertainty concerning economic mattersDesticioglu et al. (2022); Sonar et al. (2024) 
3Infrastructure and technologicalPhysical infrastructure, transportation, technology and information systems as they pertain to RLR10Lack of waste management and product recovery technologyAbdulrahman et al. (2014); Al Zaabi et al. (2013) 
R11Insufficient infrastructure and logistics facilitiesCaiado et al. (2022); Muchenje (2024) 
4RegulatoryRL-enabling policies, rules and regulations at multiple levels (municipal, national, regional and worldwide)R12Inadequate government laws and rules for EoL goodsBouzon et al. (2018); Govindan et al. (2014) 
R13Lack of representation from a professional Indian retail apparel bodyDerived in the Delphi survey by the authors
R14Changing regulationsMuduli et al. (2013) 
R15Lack of standards for recycling managementAbdulrahman et al. (2014); Bouzon et al. (2018); Giunipero et al. (2012) 
5Supply chain, governance and operationalEstablished protocols for managing value chain operations and stakeholdersR16Insufficient coordination among supply chain partnersAbdulrahman et al. (2014); Balasubramanian (2012); Prakash and Barua (2015) 
R17Insufficient planning and forecasting in RLAbdulrahman et al. (2014); Agrawal and Singh (2020); Bouzon et al. (2018); Prakash and Barua (2015) 
R18Quality issues of returned productsBouzon et al. (2016); Prakash et al. (2015) 
R19Operational issuesMoktadir et al. (2020) 
6Promotion of remanufactured or recycled productsIn relation to market volatility and competitiveness, the extent of market recovery developmentR20Underdeveloped markets for recoveryBouzon et al. (2018); Starostka-Patyk et al. (2013) 
R21Managing quality uncertainty, return timing and demandJindal and Sangwan (2013; Prakash et al. (2015) 
R22Perceptions of inferior quality productsJindal and Sangwan (2013); Prakash et al. (2015) 
R23Lack of community pressureMeehan and Muir (2008); Muduli et al. (2013); Srivastava (2008) 
7Consumer awarenessConcerning goods returns and the environmental repercussions of improper disposalR24Customer acuity about RLPrakash and Barua (2015) 
Source(s): Authors’ own creation

Table 1 delineates the predominant and significant impediments to RL adoption as indicated in the literature. The table classifies these obstacles into seven dimensions: management-related, financial, infrastructural, regulatory, supply chain, marketing and consumer awareness and enumerates the associated sub-barriers. The table provides a basis for the critical examination of current literature and the identification of research gaps in Section 2.4. This also forms the part of Round 1: The Delphi survey that is identification of the barriers to RL implementation through literature review.

An incisive examination of the current literature uncovers numerous gaps and limitations. Although there is an increasing body of research on RL in developed economies, studies centered on developing economies such as India are scarce (Dutta et al., 2021; Sharma et al., 2011). Second, a significant portion of the existing study uses a fragmented methodology, concentrating on discrete barriers in isolation instead of examining their interconnections (Abdulrahman et al., 2014; Bouzon et al., 2018). Third, the absence of consensus on prioritizing barriers complicates the ability of policymakers and practitioners to formulate targeted interventions (Chileshe et al., 2015).

Furthermore, the literature frequently neglects to incorporate theoretical frameworks, such as institutional and stakeholder theories, to offer a comprehensive explanation of RL adoption. For example, institutional theory underscores the significance of legal and cultural-cognitive obstacles, whereas stakeholder theory accentuates the necessity of collaboration among diverse stakeholders. This study seeks to synthesize these viewpoints to establish a more comprehensive framework for understanding the impediments to responsible leadership in the Indian apparel retail sector.

This study examines multiple significant gaps in the literature. This study primarily concentrates on the Indian garment retail sector, which has been significantly neglected in prior research. Second, it uses the Delphi technique to systematically classify and prioritize barriers to RL, offering a more organized framework for comprehending the obstacles to RL adoption. Third, it synthesizes insights from institutional and stakeholder theories to provide a theoretical framework for comprehending RL adoption in emerging economies.

This study enhances the greater academic discourse on RL and SSCM by addressing these gaps. It gives innovative theoretical perspectives on the obstacles to RL adoption in developing nations and presents pragmatic recommendations for policymakers and industry professionals.

2.5.1 Conceptual framework.

This paper proposes a conceptual framework to elucidate the barriers to RL adoption, categorizing them into seven principal categories and demonstrating their interrelationships (Figure 1). The conceptual framework delineates the seven principal obstacles to the adoption of RL in the Indian apparel retail sector and their interconnections. Each barrier is depicted as a node, with arrows illustrating its interrelations. The following is a concise overview of the framework:

  1. Management-related hurdles: These obstacles, including insufficient commitment from senior management and reluctance to change, frequently impact financial and infrastructural hurdles. Without managerial backing, investments in reinforcement learning infrastructure may be inadequate.

  2. Financial obstacles: Elevated expenses and ambiguity regarding economic results can intensify infrastructural and regulatory impediments. Financial limitations may hinder the use of innovative waste management systems.

  3. Infrastructural obstacles: Inadequate infrastructure and technology may impede supply chain coordination and regulatory adherence. A deficiency in logistics facilities may result in operational inefficiencies.

  4. Regulatory barriers: The lack of governmental laws and standards may induce ambiguity, impacting supply chain operations and customer knowledge. Ambiguous recycling requirements may deter stakeholders from engaging in RL programs.

  5. Supply chain obstacles: Insufficient coordination among supply chain partners and operational inefficiencies can exacerbate marketing and customer awareness challenges. Poor coordination may lead to variable product quality, hence influencing consumer views.

  6. Marketing barriers: Underdeveloped markets for recycled items and perceptions of substandard quality might diminish consumer knowledge and engagement in recycling initiatives. Negative views may deter shoppers from repurchasing worn clothing.

  7. Barriers to consumer awareness: Insufficient customer knowledge of recycling and its advantages may constrain the demand for recycled items, hence exacerbating marketing obstacles. For instance, little awareness may lead to minimal community pressure for sustainable practices.

Figure 1.
A diagram illustrating various barriers to recycling, including categories such as management, financial, regulatory, supply-chain, infrastructure, and marketing barriers.The diagram presents a structured overview of barriers to recycling, organized into several key categories. At the top, management-related barriers feature three bullet points: lack of commitment, resistance to change, and lack of collaboration. Flowing downwards is regulatory barriers, which include lack of government regulations, changing regulations, and lack of standards. Next is consumer awareness, noted simply with a single mention of lack of consumer awareness. Moving horizontally, financial barriers encompass high cost, minimal profitability, and uncertainty about economic outcomes. Below, supply-chain barriers identify issues such as lack of coordination among supply chain partners, operational inefficiencies, and quality issues with returned products. In parallel, the infrastructure barriers list a lack of waste management technology and insufficient infrastructure. Additionally, marketing barriers highlight an underdeveloped market for recycled products and perceptions of inferior quality products, alongside another marketing barrier focusing on a lack of community pressure. Arrows indicate relationships between different categories, suggesting interconnectivity among the barriers.

Interrelationships between RL barriers

Source: Authors’ own creation

Figure 1.
A diagram illustrating various barriers to recycling, including categories such as management, financial, regulatory, supply-chain, infrastructure, and marketing barriers.The diagram presents a structured overview of barriers to recycling, organized into several key categories. At the top, management-related barriers feature three bullet points: lack of commitment, resistance to change, and lack of collaboration. Flowing downwards is regulatory barriers, which include lack of government regulations, changing regulations, and lack of standards. Next is consumer awareness, noted simply with a single mention of lack of consumer awareness. Moving horizontally, financial barriers encompass high cost, minimal profitability, and uncertainty about economic outcomes. Below, supply-chain barriers identify issues such as lack of coordination among supply chain partners, operational inefficiencies, and quality issues with returned products. In parallel, the infrastructure barriers list a lack of waste management technology and insufficient infrastructure. Additionally, marketing barriers highlight an underdeveloped market for recycled products and perceptions of inferior quality products, alongside another marketing barrier focusing on a lack of community pressure. Arrows indicate relationships between different categories, suggesting interconnectivity among the barriers.

Interrelationships between RL barriers

Source: Authors’ own creation

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2.5.2 Using the framework

  • For academics: The framework offers a systematic method for examining RL barriers and their interconnections, establishing a basis for subsequent research.

  • For practitioners: The framework underscores the interrelatedness of RL hurdles, stressing the necessity for comprehensive solutions that tackle several difficulties concurrently.

  • For policymakers: The framework delineates critical intervention areas, including regulatory assistance and stakeholder participation, to facilitate RL implementation.

This study uses a two-phase methodological approach: a systematic literature review to identify and categorize barriers to RL in the apparel retail industry and a Delphi method to validate and prioritize these barriers through expert consensus. The methodology is designed to ensure transparency, rigor and replicability, aligning with best practices in qualitative and mixed-methods research.

3.1.1 Objective and scope.

This study uses a systematic literature analysis based on Denyer and Tranfield (2009) methodology to identify and examine obstacles to the deployment of RL in India’s garment retail sector. The review encompassed peer-reviewed articles, conference papers and industry reports published from 2000 to 2024, focusing specifically on emerging economy environments.

3.1.2 Search methodology

  • We conducted a thorough search in three phases:

Primary databases: Scopus (n = 612) and Web of Science (n = 384) using Boolean combinations of

(“reverse logistics” OR “closed-loop supply chain”)

AND (“apparel sector” OR “textile refuse”)

AND (“obstacles” OR “difficulties”)

AND (“India” OR “developing economies”)

  • Supplementary search: Google Scholar was used to search (n = 96) for grey literature and citation analysis.

  • Manual screening: Reference lists of pivotal papers were meticulously cross-referenced to uncover supplementary sources (n = 19).

3.1.3 Screening process.

The PRISMA-based selection procedure as illustrated in Figure 2 is as follows:

  • Preliminary identification: 996 records were from all sources.

  • Deduplication: 263 duplicates were eliminated (733 remaining).

  • Title/abstract screening: 692 papers were excluded that did not satisfy inclusion requirements.

  • Comprehensive review: 41 articles were evaluated for eligibility.

  • Final selection: 60 publications were incorporated following cross-referencing.

Figure 2.
A flowchart showing the article selection process from keywords search to final set. It includes stages, such as author removal and duplicate checks.The image depicts a flowchart outlining the article selection process. It starts with a keyword search in Scopus, identifying nine hundred ninety-six articles. The next step involves authorship and language removal, resulting in seven hundred ninety-eight articles. Following this, duplicate removal yields seven hundred thirty-three articles. The subsequent stage is a title, abstract, and full-text review, with forty-one articles considered. A cross-reference review narrows this to nineteen articles, leading to the final set of sixty articles. The flowchart uses rectangular boxes to represent each step, connected by arrows to indicate the progression through the selection process. The layout visually organizes the data from the initial search through to the final selected articles.

Systematic literature review process

Source: Authors’ own creation

Figure 2.
A flowchart showing the article selection process from keywords search to final set. It includes stages, such as author removal and duplicate checks.The image depicts a flowchart outlining the article selection process. It starts with a keyword search in Scopus, identifying nine hundred ninety-six articles. The next step involves authorship and language removal, resulting in seven hundred ninety-eight articles. Following this, duplicate removal yields seven hundred thirty-three articles. The subsequent stage is a title, abstract, and full-text review, with forty-one articles considered. A cross-reference review narrows this to nineteen articles, leading to the final set of sixty articles. The flowchart uses rectangular boxes to represent each step, connected by arrows to indicate the progression through the selection process. The layout visually organizes the data from the initial search through to the final selected articles.

Systematic literature review process

Source: Authors’ own creation

Close modal

3.1.4 Criteria for inclusion and exclusion.

The inclusion criteria are as follows: publication duration: 2000–2024; geography: India or similar emerging economies; industry: apparel and textile retail; and methodology: analysis of empirical and theoretical RL barriers. The exclusion criteria are as follows: publication duration: studies before year 2000; geography: emphasis on developed nations; industry: electronics, automotive and other industries; and methodology: editorials, non-peer publications.

3.1.5 Data extraction and synthesis.

A systematic template derived from Denyer and Tranfield’s (2009)CIMO framework was used. In Context (C), the data captured was research context and demographic, for example, “Indian fast-fashion retailers.” In Intervention (I), the data captured was analysis of RL practices, for example, “Post-consumer end-of-life apparel collection.” In Mechanism (M), the data captured was recognized obstacles/enablers, for example, “Insufficient recycling infrastructure.” In Outcome (O), the data captured was principles findings and contributions, for example, “Regulatory deficiencies impede execution.”

3.1.6 Evaluation of quality.

Studies were assessed using:

  • theoretical foundation (0–2 points): direct application of institutional and stakeholder theories;

  • methodological rigor (0–2 points): sample size and data-gathering techniques; and

  • contextual relevance (0–1 point): concentrate on the Indian apparel industry.

Studies with scores below 3/5 were removed, guaranteeing that only high-quality research contributed to the barrier classification (Table 1).

3.1.7 Method of synthesis.

The thematic analysis revealed seven dimensions of barriers:

  1. management-related;

  2. financial;

  3. infrastructural;

  4. regulatory;

  5. supply chain;

  6. marketing; and

  7. consumer awareness.

Delphi expert feedback corroborated the findings, highlighting differences such as the literature’s prioritization of “consumer awareness” over practitioners in the discussion.

3.1.8 Rationale for protocol.

This methodology corresponds with Denyer and Tranfield’s (2009) focus on:

  • transparency: explicit disclosure of search and screening methodologies;

  • reproducibility: standardized inclusion criteria and quality evaluation; and

  • contextualization: concentrate on difficulties specific to the garment business in India.

The organized method helped to clearly identify 24 sub-barriers in seven areas, laying the groundwork for creating the Delphi survey.

3.2.1 Objective and rationale.

We used the Delphi approach to validate and prioritize the obstacles identified in the literature review. This iterative, multi-round survey method is especially effective for attaining expert consensus on intricate subjects, such as RL obstacles, which include subjective assessments and varied viewpoints (Humphrey-Murto et al., 2020). The Delphi technique is efficient and successful in resolving uncertainties and information deficiencies (Münch et al., 2023), rendering it an optimal strategy for this study aim. Figure 3 provides a graphic overview of the study methodology used.

Figure 3.
A flowchart illustrates the Delphi process, detailing steps from expert panel formation to evaluating barriers through rounds of questionnaires and consensus.The image is a flowchart depicting the Delphi process used for identifying and evaluating relevant barriers. It begins with purposive sampling and expert panel formation. The first round involves the identification of barriers through literature review and expert input. The second round consists of a questionnaire to rate the relevance of each barrier using a seven-point Likert scale. Following this, responses are synthesized, and the average score of each barrier is calculated. Round three includes feedback and further questioning on accepted barriers. A decision point assesses if the average score is below five point two five; if so, the barrier is rejected. The process concludes with the identification of the most significant barriers. The flowchart uses directional arrows to guide the sequence of steps and outcomes, incorporating decision points for clarity.

Flowchart of the Delphi research

Source: Authors’ own creation

Figure 3.
A flowchart illustrates the Delphi process, detailing steps from expert panel formation to evaluating barriers through rounds of questionnaires and consensus.The image is a flowchart depicting the Delphi process used for identifying and evaluating relevant barriers. It begins with purposive sampling and expert panel formation. The first round involves the identification of barriers through literature review and expert input. The second round consists of a questionnaire to rate the relevance of each barrier using a seven-point Likert scale. Following this, responses are synthesized, and the average score of each barrier is calculated. Round three includes feedback and further questioning on accepted barriers. A decision point assesses if the average score is below five point two five; if so, the barrier is rejected. The process concludes with the identification of the most significant barriers. The flowchart uses directional arrows to guide the sequence of steps and outcomes, incorporating decision points for clarity.

Flowchart of the Delphi research

Source: Authors’ own creation

Close modal

3.2.2 Selection of participants.

The selection and participation of Delphi panel specialists is a crucial aspect of the process, and it is recommended that panels be selected with care and anonymity be maintained (Durugbo et al., 2020; Humphrey-Murto et al., 2020) because it directly affects the quality of conclusions (Gebhardt et al., 2022).

The following criteria guided the selection of participants:

  • Qualifications: A minimum of 10 years of experience is needed in the garment retail sector, supply chain management or sustainability.

  • Relevance: Individuals directly engaged in RL activities, encompassing senior executives, supply chain specialists and scholars focused on sustainable supply chains are included.

  • Diversity: Various stakeholders from the apparel industry are included, encompassing producers, retailers and policymakers.

Of the 35 experts initially approached, 19 participated in Round 1 (17 from industry and 2 from academia), with 15 remaining through Round 3 (attrition rate: 21%). To alleviate groupthink, the authors used Google Forms to share the questionnaire, making the replies anonymized, and participants were urged to independently justify their ranks in each round. Consensus was attained when barriers reached a mean threshold of ≥5.25 on a seven-point Likert scale.

In all, 15 participants completed all three rounds, fulfilling the advised sample size of 10–15 for reliable outcomes (Zielske and Held, 2021).

Table 2 presents relevant information about the phases in this study, and Table 3 presents the characteristics of the respondents.

Table 2.

Information about the Delphi phase of the study

Delphi roundApparel industry expertsAcademiciansResponses received
First round17219
Second round13215
Source(s): Authors’ own creation
Table 3.

Respondent’s profile

No. of respondents
Respondent’s position
Faculty (higher education institute)2
Middle management level2
Senior management level7
Top management4
Respondent’s age
30–39 years5
40–49 years7
Over 50 years3
Respondent’s experience
11–15 years3
More than 15 years12
Respondent’s education
Diploma1
Bachelor’s degree3
Master’s degree9
Doctorate2
Source(s): Authors’ own creation

3.2.3 Delphi process.

The Delphi method comprised three stages, each aimed at refining and prioritizing the obstacles to RL adoption. We achieved consensus by synthesizing statistical measures and qualitative feedback:

  • Round 1: Participants were requested to identify and prioritize the obstacles to RL based on their experiences. We examined the responses to provide a list of 24 sub-barriers, which we then classified into seven principal dimensions.

  • Round 2: We sent the consolidated results from Round 1 to the participants, asking them to reassess their ranks. We assessed consensus by calculating the mean score for each barrier, with a threshold of 5.25 (on a seven-point Likert scale) indicating agreement. Barriers with scores under 5.25 were deemed unresolved and advanced to Round 3.

  • Round 3: Participants were afforded the option to amend their ranks in accordance with the consolidated results from Round 2. A final consensus was reached when the mean score for a barrier was above 5.25, and the standard deviation fell below 1.0, signifying a strong level of agreement among participants.

This method guaranteed that the final enumeration of obstacles exhibited a substantial level of agreement among the expert panel.

3.2.4 Advantages and disadvantages of the Delphi method.

The Delphi approach provides multiple benefits for this research, such as the capacity to collect expert opinions in a systematic and confidential way (Gebhardt et al., 2022). Nonetheless, it possesses disadvantages, including the possibility of expert bias and the time-consuming nature of the process (Humphrey-Murto et al., 2020). This study used purposive sampling to assemble a varied panel of experts and implemented three rounds to enhance the findings.

This study examined the challenges faced by the Indian apparel retail sector by using a detailed questionnaire, expert opinions and feedback from interviews, which helped clarify issues and improve understanding (Gebhardt et al., 2022; Tapio et al., 2011). The author calculated the mean values for each barrier. A cutoff value for consensus for each barrier was considered 5.25, and a cutoff value below 5.25 was considered no consensus achieved.

This study analyzed RL barriers, finding no new ones in this round. Experts agreed on 15 of 24 barriers, with 9 remaining unresolved to be reassessed in Round 3.

Industry and academia received expert feedback in the second-round evaluation phase, assigning ratings to RL barriers and allowing participants to reevaluate and provide supplementary comments in accordance with supplementary information (Gebhardt et al., 2022). Table 4 displays the quantitative findings of the third and final round of the Delphi survey.

Table 4.

The quantitative results from the final Delphi survey

Serial no.RL barriersCodeRL sub-barriersAverage scoreAccept/Reject
1Management relatedR1Lack of commitment and accountability from upper management6.50Accept
R2Lack of collaboration with RL professionals and SC partners5.85Accept
R3Lack interest among stakeholders for RL5.10Reject
R4Resistance to the departure from traditional practices6.65Accept
R5Deficiency of strategic planning for enhancing RL implementations5.70Accept
R6Inadequate strategic planning to improve RL implementations5.70Accept
2Financial and economicR7Availability of sufficient and timely capital5.25Accept
R8Minimal profitability5.60Accept
R9RL is costly6.00Accept
R10Uncertainty concerning economic matters5.75Accept
3Infrastructure and technologicalR11Limitation of technology for product recovery, waste management5.60Accept
R12Lack of logistics and infrastructure facilities5.50Accept
4RegulatoryR13Absence of governmental rules and regulations regarding end-of-life (EoL) items5.85Accept
R14Lack of regulatory restrictions5.80Accept
R14Lack of standards for recycling management5.90Accept
5Governance, supply chain and operationsR16Lack of collaboration among supply chain partners5.95Accept
R17Limited forecasting and planning5.35Accept
R18Product quality inconsistency in comparison to forward logistics5.25Accept
R19Challenges in locating a third-party RL provider5.30Accept
6Marketing recycled/ remanufactured productsR20Undeveloped recovery marketplaces5.20Reject
R21Managing quality uncertainty, return timing and demand5.90Accept
R22Customers’ perceptions of inferior quality products5.90Accept
R23Lack of community pressure5.90Accept
7Consumer awarenessR24Customer acuity about RL5.59Accept
Source(s): Authors’ own creation

Although numerous research suggests that a mean beyond 4 denoted statistical significance (Roßmann et al., 2018; Zaidi, 2021), the author expected a mean surpassing 5. This criterion is established for research objectives to identify the principal barriers to RL adoption. Chileshe et al. (2015) suggest that the selection of the highest-ranked inhibitors across different classifications is intended to facilitate a comprehensive discussion on proposed solutions; therefore, the average participant ratings of ≥ 5.25 were deemed substantial impediments to RL for this study. Table 4 highlights these significant impediments in bold.

The Delphi survey’s Round 3 revealed 22 important impediments (score ≥ 5.25) to RL implementation, with 2 dismissed as insignificant, categorized into the following principal domains:

The principal challenges identified were management-related, with “Resistance to deviation from conventional practices” scoring the highest (6.65), followed by “Insufficient commitment and accountability from senior management” (6.50). This indicates that organizational inertia and leadership issues are significant barriers to the deployment of RL. These findings correspond with institutional theory, which emphasizes the impact of cultural-cognitive obstacles in obstructing organizational development (Powell and DiMaggio, 2019).

All financial impediments were considered significant, with “RL is costly” receiving a high rating of 6.00. Other notable financial challenges are “Minimal Profitability” (5.60) and “Uncertainty regarding economic issues” (5.75), highlighting the financial impediments in implementing RL. This finding emphasizes the economic difficulties of RL implementation in developing economies, as illustrated by stakeholder theory (Freeman, 2010).

Both infrastructure-related challenges were deemed significant: “Technological constraints for product recovery and waste management” (5.60) and “Inadequate logistics and infrastructure facilities” (5.50), underscoring notable technological and infrastructural shortcomings. All regulatory impediments are above the threshold, with “Absence of government policies/regulations on end-of-life products” (5.85) and “Absence of standards for recycling management” (5.90) recognized as significant concerns. These findings corroborate the institutional theory perspective, illustrating the importance of regulatory pressures in facilitating RL adoption (Bouzon et al., 2018).

These findings align with institutional theory, which illustrates the importance of cultural-cognitive obstacles (e.g. resistance to change) in obstructing organizational transformation (Powell and DiMaggio, 2019). The high scores for management-related obstacles, including “resistance to deviation from existing methods” (6.65) and “insufficient commitment from senior management” (6.50), point to the role of leadership and organizational culture in the adoption of RL. Moreover, the financial impediments, exemplified by “RL is costly” (6.00), emphasize the economic difficulties of RL adoption in underdeveloped nations, as articulated by stakeholder theory (Freeman, 2010).

This study identifies substantial obstacles to the implementation of RL in the Indian garment retail sector, classified into seven dimensions: management, financial, infrastructural, regulatory, supply chain, marketing and customer awareness. This section rigorously contrasts these findings with the current literature, emphasizing their confirmation, advancement or refutation of established theoretical premises and assumptions. A synthesis table (Table 5) is included to encapsulate the principal findings and their ramifications.

Table 5.

Synthesis of key findings and implications

Obstacle categoryKey findingsTheoretical implicationsPractical implications
Management-relatedResistance to change, insufficient commitment from senior managementConfirms institutional theory’s emphasis on cultural-cognitive barriersHighlights the need for leadership training and change management strategies
FinancialHigh cost of RL implementationAdvances stakeholder theory by identifying policy interventions to mitigate financial barriersSuggests government subsidies and tax incentives to encourage RL adoption
InfrastructuralLack of adequate infrastructure for product collection and recyclingAdvances literature by highlighting industry-specific challengesCalls for investment in specialized recycling facilities and technology
RegulatoryAbsence of comprehensive regulatory frameworksChallenges the notion that regulatory barriers are solely a function of weak enforcementEmphasizes the role of multi-stakeholder engagement in driving policy change
Supply chainInsufficient coordination among supply chain partnersAdvances literature by highlighting specific challenges in the apparel sectorSuggests improved forecasting, planning and stakeholder collaboration
MarketingUnderdeveloped markets for recycled productsConfirms the role of market development in promoting RLHighlights the potential for public awareness campaigns and educational initiatives
Consumer awarenessLow consumer awareness of RL benefitsChallenges the assumption that consumer awareness is a fixed barrierSuggests targeted marketing and consumer education to drive demand for recycled products
Source(s): Authors’ own creation

The research identified resistance to change and inadequate commitment from high management as the primary management-related obstacles to RL adoption. These findings correspond with institutional theory, which highlights the significance of cultural-cognitive obstacles in hindering organizational change (Powell and DiMaggio, 2019). Bouzon et al. (2018) identified that organizational resistance to RL is a prevalent obstacle in developing economies, where conventional methods are firmly established. This study enhances the literature by emphasizing the distinct constraints encountered by the garment retail sector, including the short cycle of fashion trends and the necessity for swift decision-making (Gardas et al., 2018).

The high cost of RL deployment has surfaced as a significant financial obstacle, aligning with conclusions from other research (Abdulrahman et al., 2014; Bouzon et al., 2016). This study contests the notion that financial obstacles are insuperable by highlighting viable remedies, including government subsidies and tax incentives, which have been effectively used in other sectors (Dutta et al., 2021). This discovery enhances the wider scholarly discourse regarding the economic feasibility of RL in developing nations, indicating that financial obstacles may be alleviated by specific governmental measures.

The insufficient infrastructure for product collection and recycling is considered a significant obstacle, along with the conclusions of Sharma et al. (2011) and Dutta et al. (2021). This study enhances the literature by emphasizing the distinct infrastructure issues encountered by the apparel and textile sector, including the variety of materials used in clothing manufacture and the intricacy of sorting and recycling procedures (Dissanayake and Weerasinghe, 2022). These findings highlight the necessity for tailored solutions specific to the apparel and textile sector, including investment in specialist recycling facilities and technologies.

The lack of comprehensive regulatory frameworks for RL in India was recognized as a major impediment, along with the conclusions of Bouzon et al. (2018) and Sharma et al. (2011). This study contests the idea that regulatory hurdles are exclusively because of inadequate enforcement, emphasizing the significance of stakeholder participation in facilitating policy reform. The efficacy of RL programs in the European Union has been ascribed to robust collaboration among governments, industry and consumers (Bouzon et al., 2018). This discovery enhances the scholarly discussion regarding the significance of multi-stakeholder involvement in surmounting regulatory obstacles.

The research highlights inadequate collaboration among supply chain participants as a significant obstacle to the implementation of RL, along with the conclusions of Jindal and Sangwan (2013) and Bouzon et al. (2016). This study enhances the literature by emphasizing the distinct constraints encountered by the apparel retail sector, including significant fluctuations in return rates and the uncertain condition of returned items (Gardas et al., 2018). The findings indicate that supply chain obstacles can be alleviated through superior forecasting and planning, along with more communication among stakeholders.

The research highlights underdeveloped markets for recycled products and limited consumer awareness as major obstacles to the adoption of RL, along with the findings of Agrawal et al. (2015) and Jindal and Sangwan (2013). This study contests the notion that consumer knowledge is a static obstacle, emphasizing the capacity of public awareness campaigns and educational measures to stimulate demand for recycled products (Dutta et al., 2021). This discovery enhances the scholarly discourse regarding the influence of consumer behavior on advancing sustainability.

Table 5 offers a systematic summary of the study’s contributions, encapsulating the key findings and their ramifications for theory and practice.

This research offers multiple contributions to the scholarly discussion on RL and SSCM. Initially, it validates the significance of institutional and stakeholder theories in comprehending RL adoption while enhancing these theories by emphasizing the constraints encountered by the apparel retail industry. Second, it challenges the common idea that financial and regulatory challenges are impossible to overcome by identifying potential solutions, such as government support and teamwork among different stakeholders. Third, it enhances the literature on consumer behavior and market growth by emphasizing the capacity of public awareness campaigns to stimulate demand for recycled products.

The institutionalization of RL in India’s apparel retail sector for post-consumer apparel waste may produce substantial societal advantages, such as job creation in waste collection and recycling cooperatives (Dutta et al., 2021) and diminished environmental effect through diverted landfill waste (SDG 12). Brazil’s National Solid Waste Policy exemplifies how regulatory mandates can promote the adoption of resource recovery by aligning stakeholder incentives (Bouzon et al., 2018). Likewise, consumer awareness initiatives in the EU have augmented recycling rates by 20%–30% (EEA, 2019), indicating scalable frameworks for India.

This paper delineates and classifies the obstacles to RL implementation in the Indian garment retail industry, providing innovative theoretical perspectives and pragmatic suggestions. The results emphasize the interrelatedness of management, financial and regulatory obstacles, underscoring the necessity for a comprehensive strategy for RL implementation. This section addresses the social, practical, methodological and theoretical consequences of the study, along with its limits and avenues for further research.

This study emphasizes the prospective social advantages of RL adoption, including employment creation, less environmental impact and enhanced resource efficiency. The adoption of RL techniques may generate new job prospects in garbage collection, sorting and recycling, especially in emerging economies such as India, where informal waste management methods are widespread (Dutta et al., 2021). Moreover, RL can enhance environmental sustainability by decreasing the volume of textile waste directed to landfills, therefore alleviating the detrimental impacts of pollution and resource depletion (Gardas et al., 2018). The societal ramifications highlight the necessity of advancing RL adoption to attain sustainable development objectives.

The results of this study possess significant practical ramifications for industry practitioners and policymakers. This study emphasizes the necessity for enterprises to engage in strategic planning and invest in RL infrastructure to surmount obstacles like elevated costs and insufficient facilities. For instance, organizations may pursue collaborations with recycling enterprises and technology suppliers to create effective RL systems (Bouzon et al., 2018). The study underscores the significance of customer interaction in stimulating demand for recycled items. Businesses might use marketing campaigns and incentive programs, such as discounts for returned items, to promote consumer engagement in RL initiatives (Jindal and Sangwan, 2013).

Policymakers ought to contemplate Extended Producer Responsibility mandates, as established in the EU’s WEEE Directive, to promote the adoption of RL. Tax incentives for recycling infrastructure, similar to Brazil’s National Solid Waste Policy (Dias, 2021), could mitigate financial obstacles. Practitioners may strengthen brand equity by connecting RL tactics with SDG 12 (Responsible Consumption), as established in the research by Lundblad and Davies (2016), H&M’s take-back program increased store foot traffic by 8%–12% and improved brand perception scores by 18% among participating customers.

This study highlights the necessity for policymakers to establish comprehensive legal frameworks and financial incentives to facilitate the adoption of RL. The implementation of Extended Producer Responsibility rules, mandating manufacturers to assume responsibility for the end-of-life disposal of their items, may promote RL adoption in the clothes retail industry (Dutta et al., 2021). Furthermore, governments must prioritize enhancing consumer understanding of the environmental and economic advantages of RL via consumer awareness campaigns and educational programs.

This research illustrates the efficacy of the Delphi approach in recognizing and ranking RL obstacles, especially in intricate and context-dependent environments such as the Indian garment retail industry. The iterative, multi-round survey method facilitated the integration of many expert viewpoints, guaranteeing a significant consensus on the recognized obstacles (Humphrey-Murto et al., 2020). This analytical technique is adaptable for analogous investigations in different industries or countries, offering a reproducible foundation for investigating intricate sustainability concerns.

This research offers multiple contributions to the theoretical framework of reinforcement learning and SSCM. Initially, it validates the significance of institutional theory and stakeholder theory in comprehending RL adoption while enhancing these theories by emphasizing the problems encountered by the clothes retail industry. This study enhances institutional theory by highlighting the impact of cultural-cognitive hurdles, such as reluctance to change, on hindering RL adoption, especially in emerging nations (Powell and DiMaggio, 2019). Second, this research enhances the literature on consumer behavior and market evolution by emphasizing the potential of public awareness campaigns to stimulate demand for recycled products (Agrawal et al., 2015).

This study offers significant insights on the obstacles to RL adoption in the Indian apparel retail industry, although it possesses some limitations. The confinement of the study to the Indian context may limit the applicability of the findings to other locations or sectors. The Delphi technique depends on subjective expert evaluations, potentially introducing bias into the outcomes. Third, this study fails to investigate the long-term implications of RL adoption on sustainability performance, which could yield significant insights for future research.

This study enhances the literature on RL and SSCM; nonetheless, numerous opportunities for future research are yet to be investigated. Future research should examine the impact of digital technologies, like blockchain and the Internet of Things, in addressing barriers to RL. Blockchain technology could augment transparency and traceability in RL processes, while IoT could raise the efficiency of product recovery and recycling (Zaidi, 2021).

Second, future research should examine the lasting effects of adopting RL on sustainability performance. Longitudinal studies may yield significant insights into the environmental, economic and social ramifications of RL efforts, assisting firms and policymakers in making educated decisions.

Subsequently, future research should investigate the incorporation of RL into CE frameworks. The establishment of standardized sustainability measures may enable cross-industry comparisons and foster ongoing enhancement of RL practices. By resolving these research deficiencies, subsequent studies could significantly progress the domain of RL and assist in attaining global sustainability objectives.

This study distinguishes itself from prior research by concentrating on the Indian garment retail sector, which has been predominantly neglected in other investigations. This study uses the Delphi technique to systematically classify and rank barriers to RL, offering a more organized and context-specific understanding of RL problems. This study incorporates concepts from institutional theory and stakeholder theory to provide a theoretical framework for comprehending RL adoption in emerging economies. These contributions enhance the scholarly dialogue on RL and offer pragmatic advice for enterprises and governments.

Zaidi A. A; supervision – Zaidi A. A and Chandra R. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript.

The authors are thankful that AUUP, Uttar Pradesh, allowed to contribute to the writing of this research paper.

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